Planning on Picking up 1200s, Do These Look Alright?
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Planning on Picking up 1200s, Do These Look Alright? Posted on: 07.05.2013 by Gaynell Rydberg I'm planning on picking up a pair of 1200s sometime soon. Can you guys tell me if these look fine? One of them is obviously more beat up than the other.The only thing I'm concerned about is the wiretie around the tonearm. Anyone know why that's there? IMG_0023.jpgIMG_0024.jpgIMG_0025.jpgIMG_0026.jpgIMG_0027.jpgIMG_0028.jpg | |
| Federico Vilas 24.05.2013 | Picture of guts...before I installed the rest of the parts 735204_10200210910974374_666573870_n.jpg Before pic 53828_4750956490747_1407873393_o.jpg |
| Federico Vilas 24.05.2013 | 177616_4875606726925_1213049066_o.jpg I used spray can paint (In FALL) so process took a lot longer then your urethane base/clear process with shop paint Prep: - good idea to take a picture of everything if you do not have a lot of experience taking them apart and putting them back together - I block sanded mine, started with 80 grit and finished with 400 grit before PRIMER - 3 coats of sandable primer - wetsand primer down to 800grit - 3 coats of paint - I waited at least a day between each coat so I could wetsand dust spots off - 1 hour after final coat of paint I started the clear coat process - 3 coats of clear coat, 1 hr part - I did this so that there would be plenty of clear coat for me to wetsand imperfections out without getting into the actual paint - 2 weeks later I started wetsand process - started with 1000g, finished with 1500g - buffed out with a drill attachment and some buffing compound by meguiar's - then I didn't gig them for at least 3 months to make sure the paint was 100% cured and dry result is pictured above. It is much cheaper to go with a body shop if you can find one that will do it. I had this one done a few years back for $125 but I wanted to refurb the blue ones myself 35823_1527647630040_859844_n.jpg I'm a perfectionist so this wasn't the first time I painted the blue set...I painted them 3 times...first gunmetal black, then white, then blue... I just wasn't satisfied with the overall look of the other colors. I did not sand the inside of the ttable or the 45 adapter initially until I changed colors. Those two areas are normally in great shape and just need to be deep cleaned with some soap and a SOS pad... I also did not take the time to wetsand underneath the platter b/c it will be covered...or the 45 adapter spot. They still look good BUT didn't see a point if they were going to be covered. Plus, I plan to integrate the dicers this summer and use a urethane pearl paint BUT this time i'm paying a buddy to do all the work for me. |
| Federico Vilas 21.05.2013 |
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50
Awesome...i painted mine with blue rustoleum enamel...and days and weeks waiting for paint to cure... took longer then shop but better appreciation bc i didit myself... looks like blue glass now Beware of the imfamous DUST or insects that sneek up out if nowhere |
| Federico Vilas 20.05.2013 |
Originally Posted by Patch
|
| Brunilda Kora 19.05.2013 | Yup. You're looking at about |
| Federico Vilas 25.05.2013 | Rust oleum enamel BLUE... Gloss black is hard to paint but looks real good. I would suggest a flat or matte color bc finger prints are annoying |
| Gaynell Rydberg 24.05.2013 | Looks sweet! What brand paint did you use? I was gonna do a gloss black table, but I accidentally bought black stickers, so now I gotta do another color. May try and find an alpine white. |
| Federico Vilas 24.05.2013 | Picture of guts...before I installed the rest of the parts 735204_10200210910974374_666573870_n.jpg Before pic 53828_4750956490747_1407873393_o.jpg |
| Federico Vilas 24.05.2013 | 177616_4875606726925_1213049066_o.jpg I used spray can paint (In FALL) so process took a lot longer then your urethane base/clear process with shop paint Prep: - good idea to take a picture of everything if you do not have a lot of experience taking them apart and putting them back together - I block sanded mine, started with 80 grit and finished with 400 grit before PRIMER - 3 coats of sandable primer - wetsand primer down to 800grit - 3 coats of paint - I waited at least a day between each coat so I could wetsand dust spots off - 1 hour after final coat of paint I started the clear coat process - 3 coats of clear coat, 1 hr part - I did this so that there would be plenty of clear coat for me to wetsand imperfections out without getting into the actual paint - 2 weeks later I started wetsand process - started with 1000g, finished with 1500g - buffed out with a drill attachment and some buffing compound by meguiar's - then I didn't gig them for at least 3 months to make sure the paint was 100% cured and dry result is pictured above. It is much cheaper to go with a body shop if you can find one that will do it. I had this one done a few years back for $125 but I wanted to refurb the blue ones myself 35823_1527647630040_859844_n.jpg I'm a perfectionist so this wasn't the first time I painted the blue set...I painted them 3 times...first gunmetal black, then white, then blue... I just wasn't satisfied with the overall look of the other colors. I did not sand the inside of the ttable or the 45 adapter initially until I changed colors. Those two areas are normally in great shape and just need to be deep cleaned with some soap and a SOS pad... I also did not take the time to wetsand underneath the platter b/c it will be covered...or the 45 adapter spot. They still look good BUT didn't see a point if they were going to be covered. Plus, I plan to integrate the dicers this summer and use a urethane pearl paint BUT this time i'm paying a buddy to do all the work for me. |
| Gaynell Rydberg 23.05.2013 | Do you have a picture of it? And what grit sandpaper you used (200->400->600->1200) etc. And didja clear coat it? I still haven't figured out what I wanna paint it. |
| Federico Vilas 21.05.2013 | You dont wanna know how long i spent wetsanding to perfection |
| Federico Vilas 21.05.2013 |
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50
Awesome...i painted mine with blue rustoleum enamel...and days and weeks waiting for paint to cure... took longer then shop but better appreciation bc i didit myself... looks like blue glass now Beware of the imfamous DUST or insects that sneek up out if nowhere |
| Gaynell Rydberg 21.05.2013 | Yup! This weekend I'm ripping open the table to replace the LEDs and other maintenance issues. Next week replace the RCA cable. Maybe even repaint! |
| Brunilda Kora 21.05.2013 | Victory is yours! |
| Gaynell Rydberg 21.05.2013 | Just tested the table again and spent an hour balancing it all. Antiskate works! |
| Federico Vilas 20.05.2013 |
Originally Posted by Patch
|
| Brunilda Kora 20.05.2013 |
Still a pain in the ass
|
| Federico Vilas 20.05.2013 | Yes the whole assembly. Not the base. Not the fix plate... Just the tone arm. As long as you install it correctly your anti skate will be fine... Like I said before anti-skate is controlled by that one L shaped spring that rarely gets messed up. This is hard to explain to someone that doesn't have the experience in fixing 1200s. I have learned after many years of refurbishing 1200s... Still a pain in the ass |
| Brunilda Kora 19.05.2013 | Yup. You're looking at about |
| Gaynell Rydberg 19.05.2013 | Yea I saw that. It's pretty much impossible to get a good condition tone arm assembly for <100 dollars though. |
| Brunilda Kora 19.05.2013 | I'm sure ATL meant the entire Tone Arm Assembly - not just the tonearm. Usually when I say Tonearm, I mean the entire assembly (Tonearm, tone arm base, RCA's, lifting/height mechanism, etc...) I posted pics in THIS thread... |
| Gaynell Rydberg 20.05.2013 | How does replacing just the tonearm fix the anti-skate? The anti-skate mechanism is in the assembly base, isn't it? |
| Federico Vilas 20.05.2013 | It's not that easy...reason we say to replace tone arm is bc it saves you a shit ton of time. If for any reason pivot screws are not set right the anti-skate will not work. They have to be set perfectly and not too tight or too loose. |
| Gaynell Rydberg 18.05.2013 | Yea, I was planning on just rebuilding it myself, but all of you guys just started saying buying a new tone arm for 40 bucks. If I can buy one for 40 bucks I'd rather just do that. Otherwise, I'm just gonna rewire the tonearm and get a new base plate. |
| Shan Bauerly 18.05.2013 | As with many things... Lube really is key. Clean the piss out of the height adj threads and apply a film coat. Don't, under any circumstances, use Astro Glide. |
| Federico Vilas 18.05.2013 | You don't need a new assembly... You can rebuild the current one you have... Tone arm = $50 Tone arm fix plate = $30 Lube = $10 Rcas= $60 |
| Gaynell Rydberg 18.05.2013 | WHere are you guys finding complete assemblies for 40 bucks? I can only find tone arms for 45 bucks on eBay. |
| Federico Vilas 17.05.2013 | Anti skate is just an small spring...it rarely gets messed up. If you replace tone arm correctly you will be ok. You have to pay attn to spring placement bc when installing tone arm anti skate will only work right if spring is behind tone arm bar. I'm about to fix one this weekend I will send you pics |
| Shan Bauerly 17.05.2013 |
Originally Posted by LoopCat
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| Ming Devis 17.05.2013 | New tone arms are about 40 bucks I believe? Might be worth getting a fresh set. |
| Gaynell Rydberg 17.05.2013 | Tone arm is toast for sure. Anti skate is gone. I might rewire the tone arm so I can replace the antiskate mechanism at the same time. Pitch controls are still good, just need some recalibration. 6 more days til my MCAT, then I'm wastin all my time on the tables. |
| Jeffrey Akinsanya 16.05.2013 | i hope you got them cheap... and make sure you post the refurb pics!! get them powder coated |
| Ming Devis 13.05.2013 | Check the anti skate and make sure the tone arm can swing all the way to the spindle with it set to 0 with the cart off and the counter weight screwed all the way back on a level surface. Damaged bearings means a new tone arm as not many people can replace the bearings. I would say if the motor is working correctly its playing left and right audio and the anti skate is good go for them if you can get them cheap. Things like height adjust pitch fader calibration/replacement is cheap and easy to fix |
| Federico Vilas 13.05.2013 | you an rotate it back to standard position. When you take it apart to replace LEDs you will see the old BROWN adhesive inside the strobe. Use that for reference... It is always good to completely replace the pitch controls if you are getting an old, worn out unit...it's not worth the time or trouble to clean and refurbish one as for the "weak" LEDs...that should not matter once you change them. If it is still weak after the change then there is a voltage issue... locate the bad resistor and you are good |
| Gaynell Rydberg 13.05.2013 | So questions for everyone. The more worn turntable has a couple of 'problems' The on/off switch doesn't have the same alignment. It's a bit rotated. Anyone know if this is just because of generational differences between the two tables? Based on the mechanism of hte on/off switch, I can't see it working any other way. Second, the strobe light is a bit weak on the worn turn table compared to the newer table. I haven't looked at the LEDs yet, but is this also another possibility of just being an old table and the LED being burn out or what? I have some new fancy blue LEDs on the way though anyways. This is more of a curiosity than anything. |
| Gaynell Rydberg 10.05.2013 | Yep, I saw that thread. Just picked em up today. Everything (theoretically) should work. I just need to recalibrate the more worn one. Target light is dead in both of them, but I was planning to replace all the bulbs with LEDs anyways. |
| Shan Bauerly 09.05.2013 | Or pick em up as cheap as possible, make em clean and aligned, get an overlay or a wrap and sell them for $600. Rinse + repeat. Soon you'll be in Grandmaster editions. |
| Federico Vilas 09.05.2013 | I'd pass on the deal... unless you know someone local to paint and work on it... |
| Shan Bauerly 09.05.2013 | http://community
.djranking
s.com/showthread.php?t=47069 Seen this? |
| Gaynell Rydberg 09.05.2013 | Meeting him tomorrow. All I have to do is set the table on a flat surface and look at the strobe light right? Anything else I can check without having a cartridge? |
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