Idea for Midi Fighters

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Idea for Midi Fighters
Posted on: 04.11.2013 by Charline Dye
With the MF Twister coming in January, I started believeing that a way of joining MFs together might be a good idea.

It would be a simple plate of aluminum (rounded and annodized dust black) with rubber feet on the bottom. The mounting holes match the MF assembly holes, so all you need are slightly longer screws. You really wouldn't need all 4 holes, just 2 diagonal from each other, but I was believeing about some spacers between the MF and the plate to be able to see the ground LEDs better. I guess that could be option in the mounting.

Overall length would be about 14 inches+. So about an inch shy of mixer length. There would also be an inch + space between the MF's to accommodate a right angle USB plug.

Here's my crude rendering.
MFplate.jpg

I imagine this used with one MF above the other (a Spectra with a Twister on top), but side by side mounting would be no problem except the side buttons would be a little harder to access in the middle area. Though still accessible.

I'm sure a product design pro could come up with a more elegant solution (one with out having to screw it to the plate), but I was going for simple and easy/cheap to produce. Not that I have the where with all to get such a thing into production, but maybe DJTT would if there is enough interest. Or it could be a simple DIY project for those who want one bad enough.

What do you believe? would you want/use one?

Do you see any flaws with the general concept? (ie am I missing something?)

Of course, at this point I am assuming the Twister is using the same casing as the Spectra and assembled in a similar fashion.
Charline Dye
26.11.2013
Progress this week............

Cut down one of the plates for my stacked plate, and redid the corners.
Drilled and tapped holes for the mounting bracket screws.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Next step is to cut down the bracket screws so they are flush with the top of the plate.
Then I am going to wait for a Twister before I drill the mounting screw holes. After that I am going to bead blast it for a even dull finish, and paint it black.
Charline Dye
22.11.2013
Originally Posted by Stewe
Nice going man!
Thanks!

This project may take awhile as I am hesitant to drill the holes to mount the Twister without one in my possession.
Yes I started this a bit prematurely, but once I get an idea in my head, I have to get started on it.

The next step will be to cut this plate down in size, and redo the corners. Then I'll get the mic stand mount attached.
Charline Dye
20.11.2013
A few pics of the progress.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
Charline Dye
20.11.2013
I had a chance to work on the plates a little today. Got the corners rounded off to match the MF shape using a grinder and finished them off with a file and some sand paper (by hand).
grinder.jpg
Then I sanded all the sides smooth, and sanded all the edges to a small bevel to get rid of the sharp edges using a large table belt sander.
sander.jpg
You could accomplish the same by hand (it may take awhile) or with a hand held sander of any sort. You will just need to be very careful to get things even all the way around.

I did discover one of the plates wasn't cut square at the supplier I am going to cut this one square, and make it a shorter one, maybe make it 13.25-13.5 for the stacked orientation only. Then go back and redo the corners and edges.
Charline Dye
13.11.2013
image.jpg

Plates arrived today, but it's going to be next week before I can work on one.

Since I only have a Spectra at the moment, and plan to get a Twister when they come out, the first plate will be made as a fixed mounting for the 2 MFs stacked. As per my original idea.

If I don't screw up on the first plate, I will attempt a universal plate with the other one. With the option of nubbins for quick removal of a 3d.
Charline Dye
11.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
Hey VanGogo.

The Spectra uses 12mm M3 CSK thread forming screws, the twister and 3D use 8mm M3 Pan thread forming screws.

The total length does not matter much as the screw bosses have plenty of depth in all three products, I would use a minimum of 8mm just for strength though.
Great! Just what I needed to know. Thank you very much!

With the internal bosses being deep, I might be able to use the existing screws to mount the MFs to the plate.
The plate is 1/4 inch, but drilling a recess(counter sink) for the screw heads will help with the length.

I have already ordered 2 - 6x15x1/4 inch 5052 aluminum plates. From here
Freight was high unfortunately and brought the price to $25/plate. If you can source it locally you will probably save some cash.

Stick on rubber feet can be found at Radio Shack or a similar store. I haven't looked at WalMart or a large Hardware chain, but they might have them also. The small adhesive feet will put the MF at the same height as an S4 when mounted to the plate. Larger feet that mount with screws can be found here. The 1 inch tall ones would put the MF at almost mixer height I believe, and the 1.5 inch tall ones would raise the plate above a laptop for Tekki without having to make any brackets. You may have to make the plate longer than 15 inches to go over a laptop though.

I also found this device for mounting a monitor to a mic stand that I'm going to try out for mounting the plate to a stand. Since it is 4.5 x 4.5 inches it could be used for stacked or side by side MF mounting with the same screw holes. Not sure if it will take some one finger drumming on the MFs without the bracket moving, but I'm going to find out.

If it doesn't work, one of the other brackets I posted earlier should be fine. I'm believeing the round flange with a 6 inch gooseneck will work good for positioning the MFs as long as the goose neck doesn't move too much. If it does, then just the flange to a mic stand for a stable flat position I guess or the other mount for tilting the plate.

Once I get everything together, I could make a "how to" video, but it is such a simple thing to do would it really even be necessary or helpful?
Random X
07.11.2013
Originally Posted by VanGogo
Another good idea! I might be able to use aluminum "C" channel for easy brackets. I'll look into it.

Edit: Yep "C" channel would be the way to go, but the only problem I see with that is the MFs will be covering your keyboard and part of the screen.
Thanks, and that last part is basically the idea.
Charline Dye
07.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
The 3D has silicon feet over the screw holes but the screw holes are a little closer together than the Twister/Spectra

Twister/Spectra = 128 mm square

3D = 126 mm square
Not having a 3D I would have thought larger spacing not smaller because of the bank buttons. Thanks!

Are there screw recesses under the feet of the 3D like the Twister? (Checking to see if the rubber spike idea would work for the 3D.)
Charline Dye
06.11.2013
Originally Posted by tekki
What about making brackets / rising feet under the plate, so you could position it over most 15" laptops/MacBook Pros? That way you would always have space for your setup providing you would have a place where to stash your laptop/MacBook.
Another good idea! I might be able to use aluminum "C" channel for easy brackets. I'll look into it.

Edit: Yep "C" channel would be the way to go, but the only problem I see with that is the MFs will be covering your keyboard and part of the screen.
Charline Dye
26.11.2013
Progress this week............

Cut down one of the plates for my stacked plate, and redid the corners.
Drilled and tapped holes for the mounting bracket screws.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Next step is to cut down the bracket screws so they are flush with the top of the plate.
Then I am going to wait for a Twister before I drill the mounting screw holes. After that I am going to bead blast it for a even dull finish, and paint it black.
Charline Dye
22.11.2013
Originally Posted by Stewe
Nice going man!
Thanks!

This project may take awhile as I am hesitant to drill the holes to mount the Twister without one in my possession.
Yes I started this a bit prematurely, but once I get an idea in my head, I have to get started on it.

The next step will be to cut this plate down in size, and redo the corners. Then I'll get the mic stand mount attached.
Kellie Myrum
20.11.2013
Nice going man!
Charline Dye
20.11.2013
A few pics of the progress.
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
Charline Dye
20.11.2013
I had a chance to work on the plates a little today. Got the corners rounded off to match the MF shape using a grinder and finished them off with a file and some sand paper (by hand).
grinder.jpg
Then I sanded all the sides smooth, and sanded all the edges to a small bevel to get rid of the sharp edges using a large table belt sander.
sander.jpg
You could accomplish the same by hand (it may take awhile) or with a hand held sander of any sort. You will just need to be very careful to get things even all the way around.

I did discover one of the plates wasn't cut square at the supplier I am going to cut this one square, and make it a shorter one, maybe make it 13.25-13.5 for the stacked orientation only. Then go back and redo the corners and edges.
Charline Dye
13.11.2013
image.jpg

Plates arrived today, but it's going to be next week before I can work on one.

Since I only have a Spectra at the moment, and plan to get a Twister when they come out, the first plate will be made as a fixed mounting for the 2 MFs stacked. As per my original idea.

If I don't screw up on the first plate, I will attempt a universal plate with the other one. With the option of nubbins for quick removal of a 3d.
Charline Dye
11.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
Hey VanGogo.

The Spectra uses 12mm M3 CSK thread forming screws, the twister and 3D use 8mm M3 Pan thread forming screws.

The total length does not matter much as the screw bosses have plenty of depth in all three products, I would use a minimum of 8mm just for strength though.
Great! Just what I needed to know. Thank you very much!

With the internal bosses being deep, I might be able to use the existing screws to mount the MFs to the plate.
The plate is 1/4 inch, but drilling a recess(counter sink) for the screw heads will help with the length.

I have already ordered 2 - 6x15x1/4 inch 5052 aluminum plates. From here
Freight was high unfortunately and brought the price to $25/plate. If you can source it locally you will probably save some cash.

Stick on rubber feet can be found at Radio Shack or a similar store. I haven't looked at WalMart or a large Hardware chain, but they might have them also. The small adhesive feet will put the MF at the same height as an S4 when mounted to the plate. Larger feet that mount with screws can be found here. The 1 inch tall ones would put the MF at almost mixer height I believe, and the 1.5 inch tall ones would raise the plate above a laptop for Tekki without having to make any brackets. You may have to make the plate longer than 15 inches to go over a laptop though.

I also found this device for mounting a monitor to a mic stand that I'm going to try out for mounting the plate to a stand. Since it is 4.5 x 4.5 inches it could be used for stacked or side by side MF mounting with the same screw holes. Not sure if it will take some one finger drumming on the MFs without the bracket moving, but I'm going to find out.

If it doesn't work, one of the other brackets I posted earlier should be fine. I'm believeing the round flange with a 6 inch gooseneck will work good for positioning the MFs as long as the goose neck doesn't move too much. If it does, then just the flange to a mic stand for a stable flat position I guess or the other mount for tilting the plate.

Once I get everything together, I could make a "how to" video, but it is such a simple thing to do would it really even be necessary or helpful?
Adolf Hit
11.11.2013
Hey VanGogo.

The Spectra uses 12mm M3 CSK thread forming screws, the twister and 3D use 8mm M3 Pan thread forming screws.

The total length does not matter much as the screw bosses have plenty of depth in all three products, I would use a minimum of 8mm just for strength though.
Charline Dye
07.11.2013
All right, one LAST question for you Midifidler.......... I promise it's the last one

What is type of screw (length and thread) used for the assembly screws on the 4 corners? (ex: 4-40 UNC or 2mm dia.- 12mm length)
Charline Dye
07.11.2013
That is good news. Now I know that rubber nubbins will work for the 3D as a solution for quick removal/replacement on the plate.
Thanks again for all the info!

Now I need to find rubber spikes and a way to mount them.

With the info that the 3D is 2mm different in the assembly screws, a universal plate may not work without it looking like Swiss cheese lol. I guess for a mounting plate it wouldn't matter though.
Random X
07.11.2013
Originally Posted by VanGogo
Another good idea! I might be able to use aluminum "C" channel for easy brackets. I'll look into it.

Edit: Yep "C" channel would be the way to go, but the only problem I see with that is the MFs will be covering your keyboard and part of the screen.
Thanks, and that last part is basically the idea.
Adolf Hit
07.11.2013
Yup the screws are recessed on the 3D
Charline Dye
07.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
The 3D has silicon feet over the screw holes but the screw holes are a little closer together than the Twister/Spectra

Twister/Spectra = 128 mm square

3D = 126 mm square
Not having a 3D I would have thought larger spacing not smaller because of the bank buttons. Thanks!

Are there screw recesses under the feet of the 3D like the Twister? (Checking to see if the rubber spike idea would work for the 3D.)
Adolf Hit
08.11.2013
The 3D has silicon feet over the screw holes but the screw holes are a little closer together than the Twister/Spectra

Twister/Spectra = 128 mm square

3D = 126 mm square
Charline Dye
07.11.2013
Thanks for checking on that Midifidler! That is good news for a universal plate design.

Are the feet on the 3D mounted like the ones on the Twister?
Adolf Hit
07.11.2013
@Vangogo

Just to confirm - they are in the same location ~.5 mm
Charline Dye
06.11.2013
Originally Posted by tekki
What about making brackets / rising feet under the plate, so you could position it over most 15" laptops/MacBook Pros? That way you would always have space for your setup providing you would have a place where to stash your laptop/MacBook.
Another good idea! I might be able to use aluminum "C" channel for easy brackets. I'll look into it.

Edit: Yep "C" channel would be the way to go, but the only problem I see with that is the MFs will be covering your keyboard and part of the screen.
Random X
06.11.2013
What about making brackets / rising feet under the plate, so you could position it over most 15" laptops/MacBook Pros? That way you would always have space for your setup providing you would have a place where to stash your laptop/MacBook.
Charline Dye
06.11.2013
That's what I needed to know. Thanks!

It doesn't matter for a "one off" plate if the screws are in the exact same spot as the other MFs. If screw location is slightly different on the twister, it might cause a slight problem for producing a universal MF mounting plate though.

Are the feet on the 3D done the same way as you described on the Twister?
If so, the rubber spikes could work great for easy removal/replacing a 3D on the plate.

Anyway thanks again for the info.
Adolf Hit
06.11.2013
I cant confirm if the spacing exactly matches the Spectra as I don't have files on me right now, but it does have four corner screws in pretty much the same position, the only difference being that there are adhesive rubber feet applied over the screw recesses. These can be pulled off and super glued back on, so you could potentially do that and then design the bracket to have four little rubber spikes which match up to the screws recesses on the Twister. That is pretty much how the metal F1/X1/Z1 stands work.
Charline Dye
06.11.2013
Ok, I tried drawing up the mounting plate a little better.

This one shows the plate in both orientations with different mounting holes for either orientation, or just cut it off at the dotted line if you only want the "portrait" (stacked) orientation not the "landscape" (side by side) orientation.
Plate.jpg
3 inches in between the MFs in the side by side configuration should be plenty of room for almost anyone's fingers to hit the side buttons.

This shows my original thought about joining 2 MF's to go beside you mixer/controller, and another crude rendering of the final product.
plate2.jpg

I didn't show any stand mounts, as those would be easy to add. Just drill and tap the holes for what ever mount you want. You could also bypass the rubber feet if you are only using it on a stand. You could also get larger rubber feet to raise the MF's to exactly mixer height, or use longer feet in the back and shorter ones up front to give them an angle.

I priced aluminum plate on the web at $25.00-$30.00 USD for a 1 foot by 2 foot 3/16 inch thick 3003 aluminum. They will custom cut plate, so maybe get 2 plates for about $35-40.
The rubber feet range from $.40-$1.50/each.
The round flange mount for $5.00 or the tilting mount for $20.00

So depending on how you want to configure it cost would run from $20-$25.00 up to $50.00.

I need to shop around or see if I can get aluminum plate local cheaper.
If you want to get it annodized, the more expensive 6061 aluminum would be better, but for a DIYer painting it black, the 3003 will be fine. You could leave it bare metal and polish it for a shiny finish, or bead blast it for a textured finish.

Now all I need is a 3D, to figure out how to mount it so it could be easily removed/replaced,
and Midifidler to confirm the Twister has the same assembly screws in the corners as the other MFs.
Latoria Kavulich
05.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
Hmmm if any one was going to DIY this what you could do is create actuators for the side buttons which allow you to press them from the top surface of the stand .... if only my new 3D printer was here already ...
Boom! almost as good an idea as the official djtt mf carry case *whistle*
Charline Dye
05.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
Hmmm if any one was going to DIY this what you could do is create actuators for the side buttons which allow you to press them from the top surface of the stand .... if only my new 3D printer was here already ...
That would be fantastic for a side by side mounting!

Oh and to ask my question again...... Does the Twister have 4 assembly screws (one in each corner) like the other MF's?
Adolf Hit
05.11.2013
Hmmm if any one was going to DIY this what you could do is create actuators for the side buttons which allow you to press them from the top surface of the stand .... if only my new 3D printer was here already ...
Latoria Kavulich
05.11.2013
Well i have a spectra & 3d so this idea looks pretty sweet
Charline Dye
05.11.2013
I was believeing one on top of another like this.
MFplate1.jpg
The first drawing was oriented sideways just to show the plate design.

However, with an inch plus in space in between the 2 MFs (for the USB plug when stacking one above another as in the pic) it should leave enough room to access the side buttons. Which is what the boxes to the right are supposed to represent. lol Although it would make it difficult for larger fingers.

You could just make that space larger as the design still wasn't mixer length and just have optional mounting holes for different orientations. This will be a design change. Thanks for the input!

My first thought was to join a Twister and a Spectra/Classic (or 2 spectras/Classics), maybe bring them up to mixer height with optional larger feet. Then Anti added in the stand mounting (great idea!). Now a sideways option.

I do wish I could render my idea better though to get my idea across better. I'll attempt some better drawings with the changes.

I appreciate any and all input though, as many minds are better than one (usually ) Keep it coming.
Random X
05.11.2013
Agreeing with Jester here.

Been believeing about something similar for my spectra/classic combo, but the side buttons keep biting me in the a$$...


There is one option though, rotating the MFs with side buttons in an angle of 90 degrees, so the side buttons would be facing to the top and the bottom.
(This would also imply rotating your mapping in the software, or the preset on your MIDIfighter, whatever tickles your preference.)

I even believe I have some old sketches burning away in my olde Moleskine. Might dig that up if people are interested.
Latoria Kavulich
05.11.2013
good idea for the classic MF's mate, but no good for spectras or 3d's as they both have side buttons.
Charline Dye
05.11.2013
Originally Posted by midifidler
The Midi Fighter Twister might look like its constructed in exactly the same way as the Spectra but underneath it actually has a large circular recess.

I plan on making a self adhesive stand mount which can be purchased and then applied to this recess to allow easy mounting to gear stands.
That sounds great! Thanks for the info.

That will work for 1 MF Twister/stand, but for my original idea of having 2 MFs mounted together, does the Twister have the 4 assembly screws at the 4 corners?
Adolf Hit
05.11.2013
I just saw VanGogo's post - basically exactly like that circular bracket with a threaded insert and then an double sided adhesive patch applied the mating surface.
Adolf Hit
05.11.2013
The Midi Fighter Twister might look like its constructed in exactly the same way as the Spectra but underneath it actually has a large circular recess.

I plan on making a self adhesive stand mount which can be purchased and then applied to this recess to allow easy mounting to gear stands.

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