Just finished the first of two subs I'm building
Just finished the first of two subs I'm building Posted on: 23.02.2010 by Al Henger Well guys, I just finished my first tuba 30. Was a week from start to *finish* (we still need to roll duratex over the latex base coat), but I only did work on the weekends. This is number one of the pair, both being driven on a single channel with a crown xti 2000. I have to say I'm very happy with the build, the plans (http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/) were very good, and the community
over there is very helpful.I can get this sub to a nauseating level in my room at about 40-50% power on the amp, with just a 30hz test tone. The walls start shaking pretty bad. At 90hz, 2-3 out of 20 clicks on the amp its almost unbearable Heres a pic for ya! God I am so stoked. | |
| Jaye Nydam 28.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Fatlimey
cheers again! |
| Leeanna Ayla 27.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Reckoner
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ed=0CFgQrQQwAg |
| Jaye Nydam 27.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Fatlimey
So you got any idea what crossover i could use with just normal speaker cable? (or could i wire my cables into a panel like in the photo?) or can I get a xlr to cable converter? have done abit of research but not really getting any where. Cheers. |
| Zane Lackner 06.04.2011 | About how much do those Tubas weigh once they are finished? |
| Jaye Nydam 28.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Fatlimey
cheers again! |
| robert chanda 29.07.2010 | The binding posts are outputs only, on your amp the the RCA sockets are the inputs. I would strongly recommend that you locate and Read The Fine Manual for your amplifier. It contains hookup diagrams and instructions on how to connect things. |
| Jaye Nydam 28.07.2010 | ok man thanks for that, i made a diagram i know how it all works (if i had a power amp). I can get hold of another amp and use one for hi one for low. sorry for sounding like a twat but as my amp only has 4 binding posts (for 2 speakers) i cant see how the amp could use that as and input from the CO and an output to the speakers. As its just right and left channel for each speaker. or does it mean i can just run 1 speaker per amp Thanks |
| robert chanda 27.07.2010 | I believe you may be misunderstanding the use of a crossover (CO). The CO is there to take your music signal and break it into two frequency ranges. Each frequency range is then sent to a different amplifier and from there to a set of speakers built for each frequency range. You therefore need two amplifiers. Code:
music (1/4" Balanced) ---> (XLR M) crossover (XLR F) ---> (RCA) Low Freq amplifier (Banana) ---> (Speakon) LF speakers.
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+ (XLR F) ---> (RCA) midtop freq amplifier (Banana) ---> (Speakon) MidTop speakers.
(1/4" Balanced) ---> (XLR M) (XLR M) ---> (RCA unbalanced) (Banana) ---> (Speakon) Once you get your power amps, they usually take balanced XLR inputs directly and output Speakon. This simplifies the cabling to just: (1/4" Balanced) ---> (XLR M) (XLR F) ---> (XLR M) (Speakon) ---> (Speakon) Draw a diagram! |
| Jaye Nydam 27.07.2010 | ok man i believe i get all that been doing my nut trying to work it out, let me run it by u. i will get the behringer cx2310 xover which only has xlr in/outs not sure if you can re-wire an xlr like a speakon. (and yea the amp will just be for testing and prob a house party as i cant afford a power amp yet) Amp > R & L binding post raw 12 gauge wire into male speakon, XLR converter > into both inputs on xover Tops > raw 12 gauge > wire to male speakon > xlr converter > inputs sub > delta 12lf > raw 12 gauge wire into female speakon on a jack plate mounted on the tuba > male 2 male speakon with an xlr converter > sub input on xover. (this would be alot easier if i could just wire the 12 gauge into xlr) output soundcard > rca to xlr > main input on xover let us know if that sounds like it will work thanks! |
| robert chanda 27.07.2010 | For all your cabling needs, look here: http://www.speakerrepair.com/ Well, your crossover is going to take the outputs from your sound card inputting through an XLR and output with an XLR. Your amp takes RCA and outputs through binding posts, so you'll need a short XLR-RCA cable. There are two ways of using binding posts, either with raw cable wrapped round the post or you can use a banana plug. Either way you'll be connecting the output of the amp to the speakers through a Speakon connector. The best way to do banana plug - xlr is to buy single Speakon plugs and wire your own 14 gauge speaker cables. Speakon on one end, the other can be raw or use a banana plug. Here the page: http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/mer...ct_Code=32-050 Just strip your cable ends, solder them and insert into the screw holes in the connector, reassemble the connector and you're good to go. Not a great amp, by the way, but OK for testing. I hope you have something more powerful lined up for later! |
| Jaye Nydam 27.07.2010 | nah that wont work my amp doesn't take any plugs just raw speaker cable, like this http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...w=1366&bih=562 any ideas how i could hook it all up? Thanks |
| Leeanna Ayla 27.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Reckoner
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ed=0CFgQrQQwAg |
| Jaye Nydam 27.07.2010 |
Originally Posted by Fatlimey
So you got any idea what crossover i could use with just normal speaker cable? (or could i wire my cables into a panel like in the photo?) or can I get a xlr to cable converter? have done abit of research but not really getting any where. Cheers. |
| Al Henger 29.06.2010 | Great work man! That BB looks very clean. Interesting method, putting on the oppossite side prior to the back and bottom. I believe I might steal that hahaha. T48s are on the horizon for me.... |
| robert chanda 28.06.2010 | The weekend's work, added a few panels, only the access panel, roundovers, painting and a little wiring to go. Used a flush cutter for the first time and WOW, that's one amazing router bit. It transformed my "Meh" grade box into a totally professional looking construction. After removing and filling a bunch of screw holes I can route the corners with the 1/4" roundover bit and the plastic corners will fit perfectly. Starting to get excited about this. Also in that picture is the zero-allowance cutting guide set and ready to trim the bottom panel. Without that Zero Guide, none of this would be possible. Since there's nothing in the instructions about this, here's how to wire speakons when you don't have enough space behind the panel for crimped spade bits. The speaker wires share the connection to terminals 1+ and 1-: |
| Al Henger 17.06.2010 | another undocumented tip is the use of paint cans (cut in half) on the back butt cheeks, rather than bendi ply. Just jb weld and you are good to go essentially. |
| robert chanda 18.06.2010 | For the midtops, if you have a model that uses the "buttcheeks" layout but you want the squared off look, there's an undocumented trick that makes it a little easier to build - use a semicircular cleat: |
| Al Henger 18.06.2010 | oh, and btw, a quad stack of 30" wide T48s probably looms on the horizon for me =) |
| Al Henger 17.06.2010 | hahahaha, dude, I grew up watching that show. are you building 200s or 250s? I just finished another composite Otop. I'm about to sell of my first pair of otops (with some t39s) and proly build dr250s.... maybe 280s. lol. |
| robert chanda 16.06.2010 | Next week on the New Yankee Workshop, we will be building this: A stack of crystal sharp MidTops and pair monster Bassbins, and we'll be bringing in Mike with the wiring diagrams and Tom will be rigging the Amps and programming our digital crossover with a 200hz butterworth filter to the Speakons. See you next time! |
| robert chanda 14.06.2010 | Making progress every weekend I can spare. Much of the time is spent setting up the workspace and tearing it down again at the end of the day. I have absolutely NO IDEA how it's possible to knock one of these up in a weekend. Decided to go for the clipped bottomcorner look with wheels, which means I needed to rebelieve the panels and had to sacrifice a panel 11 from the second cabinet to get this one finished. Looks like I'll be needing a little more Russian Birch Ply. Some pictures from wayback, a lot further on now. Plenty of mistakes on this cabinet that I won't be making again, so I'm counting this as the sacrificial learning experience. Angle cuts are all about setting the blade, lining up0 a straight edge, clamping it down and just going for it. Check three times and cut once. Also handy that my Milwalkee 6394 saw can do cuts up to 51 degrees. Building your own "zero clearance" cutting jig makes cutting the irregular shaped bracing pieces a cinch. And buying a Box Plane solved most of the alignment problems for fitting the final side panel. Man, these things are hard to take pictures of. They're BIG. I can see what you meant when you talked about making an 20" set next. Got to agree. There's no instructions on wiring the Speakon connectors, but researching the issue found that 1-goes-to-1 and 2-goes-to-2 pretty much sums up wiring speakons in parallel. A gentle soldering break. Looking forward to testing this and attempting to blow my 13amp circuits. Next weekend I seal up the box, add the access panel, install the wiring and test this sucker. |
| Al Henger 27.04.2010 | Limey! hows the build going! Someone else made a post about bfm in another thread and it reminded me of you! I just got duratex on 1/2 the cabs, one otop12, and one of the t30s. |
| Al Henger 17.04.2010 | looking good! loving me that 3012, wish I had sprung for them. I cut the first baffle in the way you described, but my router died while I was doing some other work in between the 1st and second. I cut the second one by hand with a japanese saw (NOT A GOOD IDEA) hahahahaha. |
| robert chanda 17.04.2010 | Visited buddy with a drill press and spent the evening cutting the baffle. Got the circles down to 1/32" accuracy with careful use of a routing bit and a circle jig. We did fine without the angle cuts, might try that next time. Was told a good tip on cutting out circles - screw a sacrificial board to the piece so that the cutout part stays secured and still until you are ready to disassemble the piece. After a bit of fitting and marking up the bolt holes, we got to use FRIKKIN' LASERS!!!! By which time it was 1:00am and time for bed. |
| Al Henger 14.04.2010 | Yeah, I left all the internal screws in. The ones one the outside panel came out, and got filled though. The PL is ridic stuff. EDIT So, how goes the build? |
| robert chanda 14.04.2010 | Nope, the screws are staying in there. There'll always be some drunk idiot who will try to dance on top of the speakers... You're a lovely man, thank you. |
| Al Henger 15.04.2010 | Alright, I've attached some images, hopefully they are kind of helpful. Basically, You draw your lines down onto the 30x30 side you have, identical to how they are displayed in the plans. All internal panels are going to be on the INSIDE of these lines (towards the center). Now, take a drill, and throw some pilot wholes into the 30x30 side. Do as many as you believe is necessary, as You can see by the pictures, it racks up to a good chunk of screws. Make these holes larger than your screws. Now what you do, is line up your panels, clamp them (or hold them, just do something) and drill small pilot wholes into the panel, through the larger holes already in the side. Remove the clamps. Lay down your glue bead, and go. If this isnt clear, keep asking... I kinda just blew that onto the reply box hahaha. EDIT The glue is pretty much solid after about 20ish minutes. However, I would leave the screws in for 24 hours, or just... dont take them out. |
| robert chanda 15.04.2010 | Opposite access panels, good tip. Question: How did you line up the screws with the panels during construction? Did you markup the opposite side of the 30x30 cabinet and use that as a guide for where to drill? Also, did you use screws where the panels join each other as well as through the 30x30 back piece? There's very little guidance on where to screw, and yes, I get that the screws are not really structural, it's more about the glue. How quickly are the glue joints solid? |
| Al Henger 13.04.2010 | Yeah man, I know all about Speakerhardware. Leland (the guy who owns the site) is a great guy, ships quick, and has unbeatable prices. Hes pretty active over on the BFM site. Other than driver, thats exactly the sub I built (I went with delta 12lf). I actually plan on selling this pair (along with 2 otop 12s), and upgrading to a 22" pair of T30s (3012lf loaded), or maybe a 24 inch wide pair of T48s. The 24" t30 is too wide to fit in the back seat of the car, so I have to borrow my roommates suv to transport them). Hope the build goes well for you! I found it went a lot quicker with 2 sets of hand working on it, and I believe it took us about 4-6 hours per sub. I would recomend duratex on the subs. I put a coat or 2 of black latex down, and then finished with duratex, and its amazing. EDIT I would also recomend cutting the acces panels on oppossite sides for each, which would allow you to lay them on their sides, v coupled, with driver access retained for both. I'll definitely be doing this on my next pair. The Titans are top loaded I believe, so this isnt as big a deal though. |
| robert chanda 13.04.2010 | 24" Tuba30's (all panels are 23" wide) with an Eminence 3012LF driver. Got me some Russian Birch ply and no idea what I'm gonna paint it with. Good point about the access panels. Best to stick with just the one - bought the kit from SpeakerHardware.com so I have hex socket head screws to secure the drivers to the hurricane nuts: http://www.speakerhardware.com/tuba_...-KT2430Kit.php Priced it out, that's absolutely the cheapest cost for all those parts. |
| Al Henger 13.04.2010 | just one. Its *kind of* a pain to get the driver out, after you finish the sub up, but as long as you use phillips head screws its not a huge deal. Its best to only do it on one side because A: air leaks are the bane of the design B: no matter how square you believe you are doing things, if they are off and you have already cut the acces panel on the other side you might have to scrap it. What are the specs on the boxes you decided to go with? |
| robert chanda 14.04.2010 | Got me a garage full of rectangles. The magic jig for the circular saw makes all things possible, including the plunge cuts for the access panel. Did you make access panels on both sides or just the one? |
| Al Henger 20.03.2010 | Many of the members over on the bfm community
s use the crown xti 1000 to drive their tubas. If you already have that amp, or you are interested in using it, I would recomend either building two 16" wide Tuba 30 slims, loaded with the eminence bp 102, or Titan 39 slims loaded with the same driver. Most of the bfm designs are not truly designed to run as singles, and like to be paired up with an identical twin, to give them better low end extension. There are also benifits to running 2 drivers on one channel. When you run 2 drivers in parallel, you drop the impedence from the original 8 ohms, to about half that, which means your amp, can supply more power to the drivers, about twice as much, which means both drivers are still getting plenty of juice. This does follow the law of diminishing returns, and most amps can not safely run things below a 2 ohm load (everytime you double the drivers, you half the impedence, meaning 4 drivers on one channel is usually ~ 2 ohms). Edit Hows the build going limey? |
| Ji Pursel 20.03.2010 | would u still be using a xti2000 to run the otop 12s? what if u wanted to run just one tuba 30, could u down grade to a xti1000? i just found a summer project! |
| Al Henger 07.03.2010 | no problem my friend. Peak levels were about 130 at the 2 subs themselves, no top support. They carried nicely, but it was tough to fill that space with it being outdoors and all. |
| robert chanda 07.03.2010 | Thanks for the update. |
| Al Henger 07.03.2010 | ahhhh... Just got back from the gig. Was outdoor, so we had to shut down a bit early (we were way over the legal sound level at the property line, about 85db in a 70 db zone). Thankfully there was no issues with the cops. A friend of mine was spinning for most of the evening
, so it wasnt exactly my type of music, but I got to throw down like 25 minutes of dubstep at the end, and the people there seemed to love it. Subs performed wonderfully. Sound on the dancefloor was about 125ish db, nothing to terrible, but the dubstep really got it up from there Great test tune, 3vil Five by Ultra black. God those bass tones are heavy. The attached pic is the outdoor space we were in. There was about 200-225 people in there at peak times, judging by headcounts. All seemed to have a great time. |
| Al Henger 06.03.2010 | ahhh.... Just finished the second one. By finished I mean its completely devoid of paint and everything pro looking. But it works. I hope. Time for a real test tommorrow. Space is semi enclosed about 30 x 60 outdoors, prolly be about 200ish people there, so I'll get back to you guys with some feedback early sunday probably. |
| Al Henger 01.03.2010 | I can easily manhandle a tuba 30 around (make sure you put the casters on it!) and I'm a scrawny guy,5'9" 115 pounds. We built them 24 inches wide, and unfortunately, they are about an inch too large to fit in my altima. We have access to an suv and they fit in there fine, along with 4 people and other essiential gear. The tuba 30s definitly pack nice in a car with lots of space, but when you are dealing with smaller openings (doors, stuff like that), the titans make it through easier. if pack space is a priority, I'd say you should build them on the slim side (23 inch wide ones would fit in the back seat of my altima), and since you only plan on making two, the 3012 is def the way to go. The next pair we build will be the 16 inch version, so we will have 3 possible setups, 2 slims, 2 wides, or all of them =) That is if I dont end up selling these in the next month hahaha, then we will build some 3012 loaded cabs. |
| robert chanda 01.03.2010 |
Originally Posted by sine143
Originally Posted by sine143
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