DIY: Project denon dn-hc1000
DIY: Project denon dn-hc1000 Posted on: 24.03.2011 by Harley Hendzel Before I got my Midi Fighter, I was using the denon controller with traktor as an additional controller to use with my Kontrol S4. It worked, but I wasn't fond of the buttons. After doing a lot of brainstorming today, I decided that I would mod the controller with arcade buttons. This will require the design of a new enclosure, desoldering of the old switches, and wiring from the buttons and encoders to the board. There are a total of 43 switches and 3 encoders. So, this will be a fairly robust controller. The layout of the board is very simple: I will post my progress as this project moves along. | |
| Gilma Marchini 06.04.2011 |
Originally Posted by Jason Cerna
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| Harley Hendzel 05.04.2011 | I |
| Harley Hendzel 02.04.2011 | thanks for the tips. Update: I |
| Gilma Marchini 06.04.2011 |
Originally Posted by Jason Cerna
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| Harley Hendzel 05.04.2011 | I |
| Harley Hendzel 02.04.2011 | thanks for the tips. Update: I |
| Shonda Soulier 09.04.2011 | Looks awesome, J! Another excellent paint job! |
| Harley Hendzel 08.04.2011 | Project is not finished yet. i did finish all the wiring and testing of the buttons, but the enclosure isn't deep enough for the wires. So, I will need to make a bottom piece out of wood and remount the top. I also damaged some of the clear buttons when i tried to glue leds to the base of the button. somehow, the glue leaked into the contacts of the button and it won't compete a circuit when depressed. I went and used spare buttons for now. But, I will have to replace the damaged ones, so I will need to make a new order. |
| Harley Hendzel 06.04.2011 | thanks for the comments. i'm am doing the slow process of wiring the controller up. i'm doing a few buttons at a time, then plugging it into traktor to test them. hopefully i will be able to figure out the midi out for the leds. i downloaded a tsi file to study but i'm a little thrown off. i also have the original manual with the midi commands for the leds but the information is in binary. |
| Rich Seery 06.04.2011 | Can't wait to see it in action once it's finished. Looking really sweet, great choice of color too. Props! |
| Marvel Sinsheimer 06.04.2011 | Looks real sweet. You got some serious skills with the can. |
| Shay Wyche 06.04.2011 | Yup, painting it was the correct decision. Looks good. |
| Gilma Marchini 06.04.2011 |
Originally Posted by Jason Cerna
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| Harley Hendzel 06.04.2011 | Once everything is wired up and tested, I will definitely make a video of the controller in action. |
| Joan Kollmorgen 05.04.2011 | I believe spraying the case was a good decision. It really compliments the arcade buttons now. Looks like a quality a piece of gear to me Jason - well done Please post up a vid of it in action when it's all wired up |
| Carlena Dechand 05.04.2011 | Good call on painting! looking good! |
| Harley Hendzel 05.04.2011 | I |
| Harley Hendzel 02.04.2011 | should be nice once i smooth the rough spots |
| Janell Selser 02.04.2011 | That came out pretty sweet. |
| Harley Hendzel 02.04.2011 | thanks for the tips. Update: I |
| Allene Manitta 02.04.2011 | i agree. in most cases the buttons (the original ones) only close the contact between ground and power. the ground is the same for every button, only the power changes. therefore you can use the same ground on each button, and only have to solder the specific power to the specific connections. just like the buttons/switches S1-S4 on this schematic: http://www.mikrocontroller.net/attac.../schematic.png they all unse a common ground. hope i helped you out, mate! btw: you solution is totally working, you just might save some time soldering and a couple of meters of wire |
| Harley Hendzel 02.04.2011 | the ground is already built into the board. all the modification is doing is relocating the buttons from the board |
| Allene Manitta 02.04.2011 | might save a lot of soldering by using the same ground on all the buttons. you only have to solder the "signal"-wire to each button, and daisy-chain the ground through all the buttons. might come handy with that many connetctions |
| Lakeesha Seno 01.04.2011 | Can't wait to see the outcome. |
| Leeanna Ayla 01.04.2011 | Sweet looking stuff there Jason! |
| Harley Hendzel 01.04.2011 | I have started the wiring and the process of removing the surface mount leds. I have also installed some plastic spacers on the bottom of the board to give it space from the bottom of the enclosure. |
| Harley Hendzel 01.04.2011 | I'm planning on working with the leds in some fashion. I will take a look at this mod for the button as well. |
| Mel Vozella 01.04.2011 | Do I see some Seimitsu clear plunger in there? Thought about adding LEDs to them? It's quite an easy mod. |
| Maryanne Weatherill 31.03.2011 | Subscribed. Really interesting thread. Would love something like this for Tpro2. |
| Brendan Kerkvliet 31.03.2011 | Looks great! I'm sure its going to look bad ass when it's done. |
| Harley Hendzel 31.03.2011 | Finished the holes for the main 40 buttons. All that is left is to drill holes for the encoders and remaining 3 buttons. Then, the solder work. New buttons came in today! Test mounting |
| Harley Hendzel 31.03.2011 | in the basic layout drawing, the spots for the top 3 knobs were just made using the 24mm hole from the midi fighter. they won't occupy that much space on the enclosure. i'm having a fun time with this project and working on it has taught me some things that will carry over into the next project, which will be expanding my midi fighter. i am also toying with the idea of doing the same kind of revamp with the x-session pro i have. |
| Irwin Ney 31.03.2011 | Can you make the knobs on the top a bit more spare? If we look the original design they look so close from each other... Great mod jason! I'm subscribing too |
| Harley Hendzel 30.03.2011 | Things I have learned after drilling the first 20 holes [left side]. 1. The drill bit to make holes is fast, but sloppy. 2. I have switched the dremel to routing mode. This offers me a higher degree of control. The holes take longer to cut, but taking the extra time is worth it. |
| Harley Hendzel 31.03.2011 | Yea, where the pins are is where i will solder the buttons. |
| Shonda Soulier 31.03.2011 |
Originally Posted by Jason Cerna
pics when you're done please??? |
| Harley Hendzel 30.03.2011 | Well, after looking at the way the components are soldered, they are all on the back of the board. So, I didn't need to desolder the tact buttons. I just ripped them off the front of the board by twisting them off. if you study the board, you should be able to spot where the tact buttons are soldered in. |
| Shonda Soulier 30.03.2011 | Jason, can you provide a little insight on how to de-solder the tactile buttons from the PCB and wire up new ones? I was believeing about doing this on my Xsession pro but said fuck it because I can't figure out where the traces go. |
| Harley Hendzel 30.03.2011 | the more i'm working on it, the more i like the wood finish compared to what i originally planned to do. i believe after sanding, i'm going to put some wood oil on the enclosure and do some more fine sanding, then do some kind of finish on it. |
| Dana Ordinario 29.03.2011 | Looking good so far if you wanna get real crafty you could give it some awesome steampunk decorations on the sides. |
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