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Customized/Refurbed Technics - Worth it?

Home :: Oldschool - vinyl and disc Djs topic :: Customized/Refurbed Technics - Worth it?Reply

Customized/Refurbed Technics - Worth it? Posted on: 15.01.2012 by Len Lukawski As many of you know, I am one in a long line of many who foolishly sold their beloved 1210s at a time when mixing seemed like something they would never dabble in again (oh the humanity!). And like many, I would like to reunite myself with a pair (I did hit up the guy I sold mine to and the b&stard said, "No thanks, I don't want to sell them back to you, I am very happy with them" - can you believe the cheek?). The pricing on straight up used/second hand units seems to range from $200/deck to some a$$hole wanting $600 for a single deck with hair dryer cables for wiring. Unfortunately I have yet to come by a set at the $200/each range (shut up Xone - I know). There are few places out there doing refurbed/ custom decks with powder coats, new leds, fully serviced etc ranging from $750-$insane a pair. Some of them offer payment plans etc which is attractive but I wanted to get some input from people THAT HAVE ACTUALLY BOUGHT OR SOLD THEM. IF you have bought a set or do this kind of work yourself - let me know what you believe. I realize that those selling will be inclined to promote the service but I am hoping that honesty will prevail. Hit me with your wisdom
Albertina Fay 01.02.2012	Originally Posted by haze324 Xone, have you heard of any shops in S. FL that customize TT's? I've been asking arouand found places that service them, but not paint. Perhaps if Papo is also in we could find a place to send our decks to get painted? Group purchase. I'm still in the stages of figuring out how to replace my RCA's I have a friend that owns a body shop here in Miami. He's been in the business for over 25 years and does excellent paint work. He's actually painted of few of my previous cars. I will ask him how much he would charge to paint 2 decks. (Including the sanding or sandblasting and prepping of the decks) I can show you how to replace the RCA cables if you'd like. I don't want to paint my two decks, as these are my prized possessions. My dad bought them for me when I was 13 and have been the only owner. Even though they may have blemishes, I would like to keep these as original as possible. I put in the LED kit Xonetacular sold me because I did not have to mess with any of the original boards. I can always put the original lights right back in without much effort. However, as soon as I get some of Xonetacular's luck and find myself a pair of Mk5's and have them as my second pair, I would love to customize /paint them asap, etc.....
Julissa Serrone 01.02.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular I'm debating just taking 4 decks to someone and have them sandblast and paint them gloss white, wonder what that would cost... Or maybe just have them sand blasted and I'll paint them. Xone, have you heard of any shops in S. FL that customize TT's? I've been asking arouand found places that service them, but not paint. Perhaps if Papo is also in we could find a place to send our decks to get painted? Group purchase. I'm still in the stages of figuring out how to replace my RCA's
Albertina Fay 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Thanks! The platters are completely sanded down and scraped. I didn't use sandblast machine for it though. Just 4 grits of sand paper (400cc, 600cc, 800cc and 1200cc grits) and s steel brush to remove the oxidation. All these procedures done while little water is running through. What about your steps after you have painted them. How do you bring back the silver dots so nicely? You obviously sand it down, but it looks perfect!
Emely Metz 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Let me know when you're nearby. Not too near but i'm from Sarawak, Malaysia...a state next door
Osvaldo Newhall 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Luconia Nice! seems that we're nearby maybe in the future i would want to buy just 1 unit of 1210 from you Let me know when you're nearby. Originally Posted by guiltyblade I would love to see a full write up/ pic gallery like start to finish on a refurb. Its super informative. You do amazing work. Thanks! I have actually posted all my works in DJF before. Took me a lot of writing too. Too bad the community 's database has all been erased. I'll try to post some here sometime. Originally Posted by bigbeatzz @ Nicadraus - You're awesome! I rebuilt my own decks and I know it takes a lot of patience and know how to make them sparkle the way you do. Good job, you've got some amazing skills. Thanks man! Originally Posted by Phildefer Did you do the platters by hand, or sand blast? I am just amazed how nice the ones you found at the bottom of the ocean turned out. I had a couple which were not a tenth as bad as yours and thought I had to replace them. They actually had black spots all around, which I believe is oxydation. I would assume you can get rid of those as well? Also what technique or product do you use to get the silver dots and tims all shiny again? Thanks a great job!!! Thanks! The platters are completely sanded down and scraped. I didn't use sandblast machine for it though. Just 4 grits of sand paper (400cc, 600cc, 800cc and 1200cc grits) and s steel brush to remove the oxidation. All these procedures done while little water is running through.
Ressie Milberg 30.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium. Did you do the platters by hand, or sand blast? I am just amazed how nice the ones you found at the bottom of the ocean turned out. I had a couple which were not a tenth as bad as yours and thought I had to replace them. They actually had black spots all around, which I believe is oxydation. I would assume you can get rid of those as well? Also what technique or product do you use to get the silver dots and tims all shiny again? Thanks a great job!!!
Emely Metz 29.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus I'm from Manila. Nice! seems that we're nearby maybe in the future i would want to buy just 1 unit of 1210 from you
Albertina Fay 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular I've got an extra full tonearm assembly sitting around that's slightly bent I'm going to take it apart and reassemble it when I get home to see what the fuss is about i am going to do the same. I have an extra one that is bent laying around somewhere. need to look for it.
Romelia Stankard 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by djlotus Deconstruction of the tonearm is exactly why I will never paint my decks. I've got an extra full tonearm assembly sitting around that's slightly bent I'm going to take it apart and reassemble it when I get home to see what the fuss is about
Romelia Stankard 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium. Sounds like a lot of work by hand. I wish I had access to a sand blasting machine then it wouldn't be an issue. I'm debating just taking 4 decks to someone and have them sandblast and paint them gloss white, wonder what that would cost... Or maybe just have them sand blasted and I'll paint them. I guess I would want to take the tone arms apart too to get those top pieces.
Sharika Meysenburg 11.12.2012	Sorry for the bump, just looking for a bit of advice. I've gone to the effort of pulling apart my decks, sprayed them, wet sand... etc.. Very happy with the result. But I'm looking at options to recreate the logo. Looks a bit naked without it. I've seen the stickers and they look pretty shoddy IMO. So I'm wondering if anyone has used these metal nameplates? They look quite nice. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251198639906...84.m1555.l2649
Albertina Fay 01.02.2012	Originally Posted by haze324 Xone, have you heard of any shops in S. FL that customize TT's? I've been asking arouand found places that service them, but not paint. Perhaps if Papo is also in we could find a place to send our decks to get painted? Group purchase. I'm still in the stages of figuring out how to replace my RCA's I have a friend that owns a body shop here in Miami. He's been in the business for over 25 years and does excellent paint work. He's actually painted of few of my previous cars. I will ask him how much he would charge to paint 2 decks. (Including the sanding or sandblasting and prepping of the decks) I can show you how to replace the RCA cables if you'd like. I don't want to paint my two decks, as these are my prized possessions. My dad bought them for me when I was 13 and have been the only owner. Even though they may have blemishes, I would like to keep these as original as possible. I put in the LED kit Xonetacular sold me because I did not have to mess with any of the original boards. I can always put the original lights right back in without much effort. However, as soon as I get some of Xonetacular's luck and find myself a pair of Mk5's and have them as my second pair, I would love to customize /paint them asap, etc.....
Julissa Serrone 01.02.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular I'm debating just taking 4 decks to someone and have them sandblast and paint them gloss white, wonder what that would cost... Or maybe just have them sand blasted and I'll paint them. Xone, have you heard of any shops in S. FL that customize TT's? I've been asking arouand found places that service them, but not paint. Perhaps if Papo is also in we could find a place to send our decks to get painted? Group purchase. I'm still in the stages of figuring out how to replace my RCA's
Albertina Fay 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Thanks! The platters are completely sanded down and scraped. I didn't use sandblast machine for it though. Just 4 grits of sand paper (400cc, 600cc, 800cc and 1200cc grits) and s steel brush to remove the oxidation. All these procedures done while little water is running through. What about your steps after you have painted them. How do you bring back the silver dots so nicely? You obviously sand it down, but it looks perfect!
Emely Metz 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Let me know when you're nearby. Not too near but i'm from Sarawak, Malaysia...a state next door
Osvaldo Newhall 31.01.2012	Originally Posted by Luconia Nice! seems that we're nearby maybe in the future i would want to buy just 1 unit of 1210 from you Let me know when you're nearby. Originally Posted by guiltyblade I would love to see a full write up/ pic gallery like start to finish on a refurb. Its super informative. You do amazing work. Thanks! I have actually posted all my works in DJF before. Took me a lot of writing too. Too bad the community 's database has all been erased. I'll try to post some here sometime. Originally Posted by bigbeatzz @ Nicadraus - You're awesome! I rebuilt my own decks and I know it takes a lot of patience and know how to make them sparkle the way you do. Good job, you've got some amazing skills. Thanks man! Originally Posted by Phildefer Did you do the platters by hand, or sand blast? I am just amazed how nice the ones you found at the bottom of the ocean turned out. I had a couple which were not a tenth as bad as yours and thought I had to replace them. They actually had black spots all around, which I believe is oxydation. I would assume you can get rid of those as well? Also what technique or product do you use to get the silver dots and tims all shiny again? Thanks a great job!!! Thanks! The platters are completely sanded down and scraped. I didn't use sandblast machine for it though. Just 4 grits of sand paper (400cc, 600cc, 800cc and 1200cc grits) and s steel brush to remove the oxidation. All these procedures done while little water is running through.
Ressie Milberg 30.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium. Did you do the platters by hand, or sand blast? I am just amazed how nice the ones you found at the bottom of the ocean turned out. I had a couple which were not a tenth as bad as yours and thought I had to replace them. They actually had black spots all around, which I believe is oxydation. I would assume you can get rid of those as well? Also what technique or product do you use to get the silver dots and tims all shiny again? Thanks a great job!!!
Karolis Petrauskas 29.01.2012	@ Nicadraus - You're awesome! I rebuilt my own decks and I know it takes a lot of patience and know how to make them sparkle the way you do. Good job, you've got some amazing skills.
Alla Bluemke 29.01.2012	I would love to see a full write up/ pic gallery like start to finish on a refurb. Its super informative. You do amazing work.
Emely Metz 29.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus I'm from Manila. Nice! seems that we're nearby maybe in the future i would want to buy just 1 unit of 1210 from you
Albertina Fay 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular I've got an extra full tonearm assembly sitting around that's slightly bent I'm going to take it apart and reassemble it when I get home to see what the fuss is about i am going to do the same. I have an extra one that is bent laying around somewhere. need to look for it.
Ira Alsadi 20.01.2012	I took the tonearm apart on my extra deck once just to do it, and had a bitch of a time getting the height ring to work properly after I reinstalled the tonearm assembly. I eventually got it, but lesson learned.
Romelia Stankard 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by djlotus Deconstruction of the tonearm is exactly why I will never paint my decks. I've got an extra full tonearm assembly sitting around that's slightly bent I'm going to take it apart and reassemble it when I get home to see what the fuss is about
Ira Alsadi 20.01.2012	Deconstruction of the tonearm is exactly why I will never paint my decks.
Romelia Stankard 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium. Sounds like a lot of work by hand. I wish I had access to a sand blasting machine then it wouldn't be an issue. I'm debating just taking 4 decks to someone and have them sandblast and paint them gloss white, wonder what that would cost... Or maybe just have them sand blasted and I'll paint them. I guess I would want to take the tone arms apart too to get those top pieces.
Osvaldo Newhall 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular Cool let me know how they fit. nicadraus- what do you use to scrape the paint off everything? Do you just do that by hand with sandpaper? Yes I do sand it all the way down with a 400cc grit waterproof sandpaper. Let little water run while sanding it down. Paint stripper doesn't work on the primer that Technics used. You can also use a sand blasting machine. Works better, faster and no need to primer the frame when it's sand blasted. The paint works well with sand blasted metal especially with diecast aluminum and magnesium.
Romelia Stankard 20.01.2012	Cool let me know how they fit. nicadraus- what do you use to scrape the paint off everything? Do you just do that by hand with sandpaper?
Corrin Penney 20.01.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular I still haven't picked RCA cables... I'm believeing of just using the same type off wire as the stock RCA cable and putting nice connectors on, then maybe sleeving them. I ended up going for these: http://www.htfr.com/p/375427/signal_...o_high_quality Not the highest of quality or price tags, but Ive used a pair of them for a while now and theyre good cables with good quality phono plugs that sit nicely in my audio 8. Theyre also comparable in thickness to the standard cable, so should fit nicely in the clip.
Romelia Stankard 19.01.2012	Originally Posted by Flash101uk I do plan on sorting the RCA's and installing some underplatter lighting soon though. Once ive decided which cable's good for the job! I still haven't picked RCA cables... I'm believeing of just using the same type off wire as the stock RCA cable and putting nice connectors on, then maybe sleeving them.
Corrin Penney 18.01.2012	Originally Posted by Nicadraus But if you're up for it, hit me with a PM or send me your yahoo ID so we can chat or talk while guiding you. Thanks very much for the offer man , But considering what youve said, I might just leave it for the professionals! I'd rather not screw up my beloved techs. Ive been searching for a beat up one at a bargain price to mess about with, but no joy. I do plan on sorting the RCA's and installing some underplatter lighting soon though. Once ive decided which cable's good for the job!
Osvaldo Newhall 19.01.2012	Originally Posted by Flash101uk Im loving the whites, gorgeous clean lines. Im planning on doing a bit of house keeping on my techs myself. How much pain is the tonearm to dis-assemble/re-assemble and re-calibrate? I'd love to attempt a paint job by myself but it might be easier (and WAY faster) for a bodyshop to do it. The only thing that puts me off is the tonearm assembly. Well to be honest, the tonearm is the trickiest of them all. It took me almost two years to master every bit of it. Putting the adjuster ring alone has a technique that not all can do. There are six ways to put it back but only one is the proper way. The calibration of the pivot screws for the swing and swivel is another thing. The soldering of the tiny wires on to the toearm PCB. The toearm lever adjuster, antiskate reload spring, the setting plate, and much more to consider. But if you're up for it, hit me with a PM or send me your yahoo ID so we can chat or talk while guiding you.
Osvaldo Newhall 19.01.2012	Originally Posted by Xonetacular Gorgeous work- I hope to get to that level. I believe I asked you before but what paint do you use? I am going to need to repaint some decks so any tips? In the past I always just cleaned tables up really well but I have some now that could use paint. I don't have access to a shop or anything so this will all be done on my balcony and I would prefer to use spray cans. Are there any really good automative type spray paints you would recommend? What about buffing? I used to buy spray rattle cans but they eventually turn out to be more expensive and the colors are very limited. Automotive paints from cans are better as you can mix the shades you want, thin the paint yourself depending on how many layers or coats you want to apply. I use automotive polyurethane paints such as PPG, DuPont and Anzahl. PPG is a pain to use but if done correctly, the results are amazing. Anzahl is the easiest to work with with nice results. Anzahl is also the cheapest. I do buff the decks after wet sanding the top coat once it's completely dried. I use an industry standard buffing machine (Makita 9227C) with buffing foam pads and Adam's Polishes products.
Dierdre Stillabower 19.01.2012	Thanks a bunch. Your advice is much appreciated.
Osvaldo Newhall 19.01.2012	Originally Posted by Hypernia That's some pretty cool stuff. Thanks man! Originally Posted by Boomcie I remember when you posted those LTDs on DJF, I died a little inside.
Osvaldo Newhall 19.01.2012	Originally Posted by 0.0 Wow, those look great. The white with the LEDS looks sooo clean. I've been believeing about getting into repairing broken TT's for a while now, but didn't know where to start. What mechanical problems do you usually run into with these? How do you go about diagnosing the repair? Are there any problems that just can't be fixed without spending more than the table's worth? Simple things to look out for are: Motor: -Does the platter spin. Spin the platter manually and see if the platter spins continuously without any friction until it stops completely. -Check the strobe and move the pitch with small increments while checking the dots on the platter. See if the dots are glitching or not. -Press start and set the pitch control to zero. See if the strobe light flickers while the platter is spinning. If it does, then the drive IC needs to be checked, cleaned and/or replaced. Tonearm: 1. Check the arm by pulling it back and fort holding it from the tip. Does it shake or vibrate? There shouldn't be any. If there are, then two things may cause it. Either the pivot screws aren't tightened and calibrated or the bearings are not good. 2. Check the swivel of the arm. Remove the counter weight balance and place the tip of the arm on your finger. Then glide it from left to right and try to feel for any resistance. If there are, then either the pivot screws are too tight, or the bearings are not good, or the anti-skate has been touched internally before and wasn't put back properly. 3. Check the height adjuster ring. Unlock it and turn the ring dial and see if the numbers coordinate with the marker as the tonearm raises up and and go down. 4. Check the tonearm contacts by using a multimeter with the RCA tip connectors. There are four pins inside the tonearm tip. Top left is left signal, top right is right signal, bottom left is left ground, bottom right is right ground. The tonearm casing itself is the body grounding. Pitch: -Glide the pitch and read the dots. +3.3%, the first row of dots on the platter should be at zero meaning it should look static while the platter is spinning. At +6%, the 2nd row of dots should be at zero. At -3.3% the 4th row (bottom row) of dots should be at zero. If these dots are not in line, then the pitch may be calibrated. But if the pitch makes big jumps with small increment of adjustments, then the pitch may need to be replaced. RCA contacts: -Some signals may vary depending on the headshell, cartridge and needle used. You can either check the RCA by playing an actual vinyl on it and checking the meter on the mixer and sound output through your speakers or use a multimeter (please refer to tonearm check #4). Hope this helps.
Corrin Penney 18.01.2012	Im loving the whites, gorgeous clean lines. Im planning on doing a bit of house keeping on my techs myself. How much pain is the tonearm to dis-assemble/re-assemble and re-calibrate? I'd love to attempt a paint job by myself but it might be easier (and WAY faster) for a bodyshop to do it. The only thing that puts me off is the tonearm assembly.
Romelia Stankard 18.01.2012	Gorgeous work- I hope to get to that level. I believe I asked you before but what paint do you use? I am going to need to repaint some decks so any tips? In the past I always just cleaned tables up really well but I have some now that could use paint. I don't have access to a shop or anything so this will all be done on my balcony and I would prefer to use spray cans. Are there any really good automative type spray paints you would recommend? What about buffing?
Tamekia Piraino 18.01.2012	I remember when you posted those LTDs on DJF, I died a little inside.
Fredda Klarman 18.01.2012	That's some pretty cool stuff.
Dierdre Stillabower 18.01.2012	Wow, those look great. The white with the LEDS looks sooo clean. I've been believeing about getting into repairing broken TT's for a while now, but didn't know where to start. What mechanical problems do you usually run into with these? How do you go about diagnosing the repair? Are there any problems that just can't be fixed without spending more than the table's worth?

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Customized/Refurbed Technics - Worth it?