Numark Total Mod
Numark Total Mod Posted on: 12.02.2010 by Lorene Boehler With DC stuck in 10 inches of snow, I decided to spice up my Numark Total Control. The first, in my 3-part plan, was to change the color from lame grey to black.After letting the paint dry it came out looking pretty sick. My next step will be trying to get my CDJ fader knobs on it, but the issue is the height of my faders. When I put them on it, they hovered and didn't really lock in place. So unless any of you have an idea on how to get them on their, I | |
| Emilee Woytovich 15.05.2010 |
Originally Posted by sinewave3
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| Gilma Marchini 22.04.2010 |
Originally Posted by JelaniRobot
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| Ethel Feigum 19.05.2010 | I re-mapped my TC, so I took off the faceplate because several buttons were marked wrong anyway. Now I'm used to not having any markings so I'm believeing of giving my faceplate to an artist friend of mine to paint up for me. |
| Angelo Butrim 19.05.2010 | I was believeing about custom Total Control faceplates, too. My plan was to (hopefully) find a graphics file of the faceplace, make my own graphic, and have it printed and laminated at a local shop. Then I could remove my faders and pop it on... |
| Emilee Woytovich 15.05.2010 |
Originally Posted by sinewave3
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| Angelo Butrim 03.05.2010 | Nice mods people! I like my TC, but don't have the balls to cut it's circuit boards. Probabally have a custom faceplate made, though |
| Gilma Marchini 22.04.2010 |
Originally Posted by JelaniRobot
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| Lorene Boehler 22.04.2010 | The control mapping was on a plastic sheet that you can lift off of it. I just removed the sheet, painted, then put it back on. |
| Gilma Marchini 22.04.2010 | This is off topic, but how do you go about painting that thing without losing the control text? Like the play/pause under the buttons? |
| Lorene Boehler 22.04.2010 | Sorry for being AWOL about the project, I had about four gigs lined up and didn't want to break something I couldn't fix. But as far as the button size goes, three of the DJ TechTools buttons for each deck is ideal. After seeing the complications that cabdoctor had with the ghost signals I decided to abandon the project and just create a separate MIDI controller to pair with it, sorry . |
| Donovan Doose 20.04.2010 | Jelani, did you ever find the right size buttons for the TC? or did you end up trying to use the ones you first ordered? |
| Hoa Oss 16.04.2010 | No worries! I'm excited! |
| Buster Kiper 16.04.2010 | Ok I'm back from NYC so I'll try and do a write up on my Numark Stealth Controller Arcade. Sorry for the delay. |
| Hoa Oss 16.04.2010 | WOW this is amazing! I've always been envious of the Vestax controllers, and now my Stealth can have the same. You could really start a modded order for this, by the way. Many people (like myself) who don't know much about circuit modding would pay good money to get this done. |
| Donovan Doose 10.04.2010 | Was wondering if you had been able to work out all the bugs on this controler? I wanted to see the final product to see if I would go ahead and tackle this on my TC. Thanks. |
| Lorene Boehler 11.03.2010 | What was the problem / solution? |
| Buster Kiper 11.03.2010 | Good news! I got one side completely working to the point that tomorrow I can cut the bottom part of the PCB off and call it good. WOOT Now back to the pain the butt deck 2 side. |
| Buster Kiper 09.03.2010 | Yeah but the weird believe is even if you have all the arcade buttons unhooked, and you press the "Load Track 2" button, you still get the five midi notes. So this tells me that some how I cut out an inhibitor circuit someplace. Numark has be helpful, but unfortunately they don't have the schematics for this product. I image they just replace the PCB when it goes bad. |
| Lorene Boehler 09.03.2010 | It's possible that the connections you made are meant to be separated at some point. It seems like each time you close one circuit, it connects multiple one in that circuit to close. I don't know how friendly Numark's Customer service people are, but hopefully there better that the NI people. |
| Buster Kiper 09.03.2010 | Yeah the confusing thing is the way the keys stack. Almost as if its not a true "ghosting" problem..... I would be interested to see what the input voltage is on each of those buttons on an original stealth or totalC. Might give some clues. |
| Ethel Feigum 09.03.2010 | Yikes! I understand the "ghosting" problem, but this is quickly beginning to surpass my knowledge! |
| Buster Kiper 09.03.2010 | Better yet, here's a picture of what MidiOX is saying its outputting along with the corresponding buttons that are being pressed. |
| Buster Kiper 09.03.2010 | Hmmmm actually it looks like the PCB architecture is pretty different between the Total Control and the Stealth. Although they do use the same components. Basically what I'm running into is a "Ghosting" problem. It happens when you have a large matrix of keys. Without the proper diodes you being they begin to step on each other. Heres an Example When I press the button for midi value 90 54 7F I get just that But when I press 90 4C 7F I get an output of 90 4C 7F and 90 54 7F. It's ghosting a second key And then try 90 44 7F, I get 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F Now its ghosting two keys 90 3C 7F = 90 3C 7F; 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F Ghosting three keys And lastly key 90 33 7F produces 90 33 7F;90 3C 7F; 90 44 7F; 90 4C 7F; 90 54 7F Thats four keys Ghosted. Now I cant seem to figure out why this is happening. The only thing thats not an OEM solder point is the leads for keys 3C, 44, and 4C AKA the bottom three buttons, each of these had a diode on them which I reproduced, but I still find it funny that they would act this way. It's like when I press a button it closes the buttons behind it but not the ones in front of it. Pretty weird. |
| Ethel Feigum 09.03.2010 | That's at least the correct ares, right? Upon viewing these I will def take better pics tomorrow. |
| Ethel Feigum 09.03.2010 | For lact of a better camera I snapped these on my phone. If they're not useable I'll borrow my roomie's camera tomorrow and try again. left deck bottom right deck bottom left deck top right deck top |
| Buster Kiper 08.03.2010 | Ok I believe the biggest help I could use is can someone snap a picture of the bottom of the PCB. I need both front and back of both Decks 1 and 2. Just the area below the jog wheel. In the highest quality you can. I have to do some wire tracing/reverse engineering with the pictures. I almost got it to the point where I can completely cut off the bottom half. Thanks guys. Also I sent this thread to the guys at Numark. I imagine they have to be enthused that Vestax won't be having all the fun. |
| Ethel Feigum 08.03.2010 | I'll try to snag a multimeter from my boss in the next few days. |
| Buster Kiper 08.03.2010 |
Originally Posted by JelaniRobot
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| Lorene Boehler 08.03.2010 | Sorry, I don't have one. But I just got my 30mm buttons in the mail, they are way to big lol. Looks like I'mma have to cut. I used the 30mm to start to make a DIY MIDI Controller though so It's not a total waste. |
| Buster Kiper 08.03.2010 | On Deck2 are the grounds for the EQ Low kill push button, Load track deck2, Play, Set Cue, and Cue all interconnected? It looks like they are and just have diodes branching off to each button. |
| Ethel Feigum 08.03.2010 | ...and if Jelani hasn't got a multimeter I can probably score one from work. As far as I can tell the board is the same between both units, so I can check that something for you if need be. |
| Ethel Feigum 08.03.2010 | Nice work! I can't wait to start on my TC! Unfortunately, I have too many gigs lined up to begin for a while. I'll be getting a Stealth in the next few months, then I'm gonna go crazy on my TC. |
| Buster Kiper 08.03.2010 |
Originally Posted by JelaniRobot
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| Buster Kiper 06.03.2010 | Also, the wiring you see there controls both sides of the controller. So it looks like a lot more than is actually there. |
| Buster Kiper 06.03.2010 | Ok here's the back. Kind of a rats nest. I have really long leads to help with the diagnostics procedures I'm doing right now. I'm going to shorten them up a bit and silicon/zip tie all the wires in a nice neat arrangement. My goal is to have everything wired so I can cut about a 1/2 inch (12mm) of the bottom of the board so the there's no pressure on the board or buttons. So back to my Digital Multimeter for me! At Least I'm making a lot of progress. I believe when I'm done I'll have this down to less than 60 soldering connections, Woot! PS Did I mention the response on the buttons is unreal! |
| Lorene Boehler 06.03.2010 | Love it! Looks mad decent! Could you take a picture of the insides? Wanna make sure I'm ready before I start. |
| Buster Kiper 06.03.2010 | Well I believe I figured out the problem with the midi notes, to tired to explain. Wrote a quick XML to test the Juggle on DJDecks. OMG the response is simply unreal! I tapped, twiddled, and crabbed as fast as I could and everything responded. I wonder if I can get Numark to send me a new PCB so I can do a nicer job on this since I'm breaking fresh ground here |
| Buster Kiper 06.03.2010 | I hacked the board to pieces. Thats why I need a schematic now, I forgot to write down some values before i cut some parts off. UPDATE: All 8 buttons are working, albeit Still with the confused midi notes. Monday I grab a schematic and see what I'm missing. |
| Lorene Boehler 06.03.2010 | Would love to see a picture of the connection to the circuit board that you are using. Since it isn't the low profile buttons did you cut the board and solder the leads? I'm curious! |
| Buster Kiper 05.03.2010 | Got four of the buttons hooked up and they work, the only thing is they are sending the wrong Midi value. Looking at the circuit it appears as though resistors modify the incoming flow, thus determining the what midi output is played when the button is pushed. So my next step is to grab a potentiometer and begin goofing around with that seeing if I can change the midi output. The funny this once all the kinks are worked out this will literally be a 2-3 hour project for everyone else. Also if I don't have this solved by monday, I'm sure I can grab a schematic from Numark that will make the reverse engineering much easier. |
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