Worklog/Guide: Painting Technics SL-1200
Worklog/Guide: Painting Technics SL-1200 Posted on: 25.05.2013 by Gaynell Rydberg I bought two SL1200s that were in pretty rough condition, but I couldn't pass up the deal I got.Shout out to DjLiquitATL for giving me tips on how to repaint the Technics and everyone else who has helped me in fixing problems here and there. This community is amazing. The table A picture is worth a 1000 words right? Pretty bad condition. What do you need? Spray Paint
You can use any brand you'd like. People on my motorcycle community repaint their bikes all the time and swear by Duplicolor which is what I use. Sandpaper
I don't know if you can buy the 80 grit in a wet version, but buy wet sandpaper if possible! It is a MUST for cleaning up heavy spots and other blemishes. I highly recommend buying a sanding block. It will make your life much easier, and you will sand more evenly. I have 2000 and 3000 grit sand paper on the way. 3000 grit sand paper is pretty pricey, 6 bucks per 3 2/3" x 9" strip. I don't believe it's required but based on my readings, I recommend getting it. You can be the judge once I get to that point! The process Prepwork REMOVE THE BEZEL FOR THE TARGET LIGHT. Remove the paint using the 80 grit sandpaper. You do not need to apply a ton of force. If you are using a sanding block, this will be a breeze. Let it lightly run over the plinth (the thing you are repainting) and the block will do the work. If you are using your hands, make sure you are sanding evenly. The edges of the plinth are beveled. Remember to sand this bevel, and try to match the angle. While you are sanding, blow off the paint particles every now and then. Once you are done, it is time to wetsand. Follow up with 220 grit sandpaper. Get a dish of water and wet your sandpaper. Sand the plinth again like the previous step. The only difference this time: wet the sandpaper in frequently instead of blowing the water off. If possible, get a hose or something to wash off the plinth. Repeat the last step except with 400 grit sandpaper. Time for Primer More to come tomorrow, it is getting dark here, and I want it to be hot out when I am spraying paint. I messed up here. Learn from my mistakes!! Lesson 1: Don't be afraid to spray up close with the primer. You're going to be sanding it anyways. I wasted about half a can because I was too worried about drips. That said, DO follow the instructions on the paint can, 8-10 inches and parallel. Lesson 2: 220 grit is too harsh for primer. It takes off way too much material. Use the 400. I actually went out and bought some 600 grit because that was what the can recommended. I started off with the typical box as a painting booth. Here it is after the first layer of primer (way too light). I changed my setup to hanging on a string. I fed the string between the ports in the back and used two chairs to hold the string up. This was after I sanded with the 220 grit. You can see my primer coat was not thick enough to withstand the 220 grit sandpaper. If you have any pitting, I would recommend getting something to fill it in such as bondo or something. I had this tiny pit that I thought the primer would fill in, but it was too deep. Also, if you see these little specks, you NEED to sand. This was day 2 of primer since I had to go out and buy a second can. This is the completed primer layer though. I finished up with 600 grit sanding. Painting! Use the same setup! Again, follow the instructions on the can. All was going well until I got too impatient and created a run. This cannot be emphasized enough. Be patient. I further messed up by attempting to use a razor to remove the run but failed causing some paint to peel. Consequently, I'm low on paint, and I need to buy a second can of paint. If you do this right the first time, you should only need 1 can of paint. First layer of paint, your coat does not have to cover it entirely! Here's my crappy photography skills, but my automatic setting takes horrible pictures, and I'm too lazy to fiddle with the settings in manual. This is the finished product after day 1 of painting. I will continue again tomorrow with more painting. Skip a week of repeated sanding and painting (this is where OCD kicks in). I've given up on trying to perfect everything on this table. I believe next time I will just paint the whole plinth and just plug the threaded areas. This is where I'm really not sure how it'll turn out. I bought these stickers from eBay and the seller told me that the stickers may shrink when getting cleared. I tested it by sticking some spares on the cardboard box and spraying them with clear after 24 hours, and it didn't seem to shrink. I only did one light coat though. I really didn't like how sharp the edges were on the clear coat. I'm going to try to hopefully sand it down so the edges don't show. I'll be making this up as I go along since the guides out there tend to use high quality clearcoats for cars and whatnot. | |
Federico Vilas 18.06.2013 |
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50
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Federico Vilas 18.06.2013 | thanks for the shout out...i didn't even realize it... the key to painting decks with SPRAY CAN paint is taking your time, wet sanding between coats, and clear coating the shit out of the deck once the last coat of paint is almost dry. That will give you plenty of room for error when wet sanding smooth and if you mess up you can always spray more clear coat on it. wetsanding the low/high spots takes a lot of time and practice. I ended up painting my decks 3-4 times before I got it right b/c I was using metallic paint at first and if you wetsand too far on metallic you are screwed this picture doesn't really do them justice BUT it looks like blue glass: 177616_4875606726925_1213049066_o.jpg here's one I had done at a body shop, cadillac white pearl 31842_1520175643245_741831_n.jpg just take your time. you will get it done right |
Merlyn Birchfield 24.06.2013 | Looks very nice. FWIW, I like the silver better |
Gaynell Rydberg 24.06.2013 | Wait what? Could you link me? I've never come across such a thing. It would have only taken a week or two, but I messed up so many times :| |
Federico Vilas 23.06.2013 | You can get an OEM kit on eBay cheap... You painted your much faster then I. It took me about 4-5 months between work |
Gaynell Rydberg 23.06.2013 | I believe I'm gonna go with black. I like it matching the base of the tone arm with the silver fader knob for accenting the tone arm. I'm missing a TON of screws actually. I don't believe I put too long of a screw though for the dust cover since they all went down flush with the plastic. I'm actually believeing the paint build might have been too high and is raising the plastic just a hair. I didn't realize the tolerances were so tight. I've really considered picking up a copy of TSP2 since I have two tables anyways. It's a ton cheaper than CDJ/DJM, but I just don't have the space :| One turn table takes up my entire desk space lol. edit: You're right. I put jsut the dust cover on and it spun fine. Found the right length screw and it's all good now! Except this means I have 5 screws lying around that should be on the inside lol. Time to open her up again. Gotta do the tone arm rewire anyways. |
Federico Vilas 23.06.2013 | Now all you need is a z2 |
Federico Vilas 23.06.2013 | Black I would look under your platter around the edge where the dust/circuit cover goes. If its dragging there is a very high probability that you put a wrong/longer screw in the wrong spot...which is common if you don't have all OEM screws or a really old ass 70s model 1200 |
Brunilda Kora 23.06.2013 | Easy. Black if it's a 1210 (to match the tonearm) and Silver if it's a 1200 (to match the tonearm). Looks like you've got a 1200 tonearm, there... Really nice job you've done there. |
Gaynell Rydberg 23.06.2013 | Done! Sort of... Right now, if I install the black plastic cover for the circuit board and stuff, the platter rubs against it so I need to figure out where it's too high. There's a couple blemishes, but I'm not gonna go out and buy another can of paint to fix it again. So TIPS: Sand and file down all the holes INCLUDING the 33/45 switch area. It is a very tight fit there. You can sort of see where the paint rubs against the 33/45 switches. Also, white is a bitch. It gets dirty very very easily. Two pictures because I haven't decided whether to go with the black or silver faceplate yet :P |
Federico Vilas 19.06.2013 | just leave it blank...everyone knows its a 1200 |
Gaynell Rydberg 19.06.2013 | That's what everyone has been saying over at Audio Karma. I just don't have the files to print out my own water slide decals :| I believe silk screen may be too difficult for me to do at my apt. I'd have to do it back at home. |
Arnulfo Morten 19.06.2013 | seeing how your decals are black i would go with waterslide decal or silk screen decal that is how you are going to get it flush and oem looking |
Gaynell Rydberg 18.06.2013 | Hehe. Yea. Bit late :P I nearly broke down in tears when I saw the crack lol. I've been taping off that area now on the inside and will sand it down or file it down. |
Federico Vilas 18.06.2013 |
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50
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Gaynell Rydberg 18.06.2013 | Powder coating is good if you're going with a popular color that the powder coater can throw your table in with, otherwise it'll be pretty pricey. Around my area anyways. It cost me a lot this time around, but the next table I paint should be much much much cheaper. It was all perfect until I attempted reassembly and broke the paint installing the stylus light cover. Then it just got worse and worse as my OCD for perfection peeled off more paint lol. |
Federico Vilas 18.06.2013 | I forgot to mention that you want to keep these babies away from harm for 2-3 months until the paint cures |
Federico Vilas 18.06.2013 | thanks for the shout out...i didn't even realize it... the key to painting decks with SPRAY CAN paint is taking your time, wet sanding between coats, and clear coating the shit out of the deck once the last coat of paint is almost dry. That will give you plenty of room for error when wet sanding smooth and if you mess up you can always spray more clear coat on it. wetsanding the low/high spots takes a lot of time and practice. I ended up painting my decks 3-4 times before I got it right b/c I was using metallic paint at first and if you wetsand too far on metallic you are screwed this picture doesn't really do them justice BUT it looks like blue glass: 177616_4875606726925_1213049066_o.jpg here's one I had done at a body shop, cadillac white pearl 31842_1520175643245_741831_n.jpg just take your time. you will get it done right |
Annalisa Shogren 18.06.2013 | Have you thought about powder coating it? |
Gaynell Rydberg 18.06.2013 | You don't want to see how it is now. I've stopped posting temporarily because of how much repainting I've had to do. Paint keeps chipping near the stylus light so I've been stripping it down to bare metal (a small section) and then repainting. So incredibly frustrating. I also peeled off the stickers except for the strobe dot sticker since I don't remember that one all the time. I'm considering silk screening the table in the future. |
Merlyn Birchfield 18.06.2013 | Very cool... really appreciate honest restoration posts where everyone gets to learn from your mistakes. |
Gaynell Rydberg 11.06.2013 | Done! After clearcoat sanded down with 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit sandpaper. It feels smooth, but the sanding isn't. I messed up yesterday and sanded too much so I had to respray a little paint. As a result, i had to tape off the stickers (which I could have just peeled off...) creating a ridge. You can see it if you look real close. I'm happy with the paintjob though considering my facilities. I learn a LOT and I believe my next paintjob will be significantly better. I repainted so many times because I banged the plinth on something while maneuvering it in my sink during sanding. When I paint my second table, I believe I will be repainting back at home where I have a ton of space and a hose. My biggest issue during clearcoat was dust falling into the coat while drying and there are little specks here and there that I can't get rid of. Now for the part everyone is waiting for.. pictures! I'm still not sure if I like the stickers or not. There's no way I can get these stickers looking like they're underneath the clearcoat. The Duplicolor clearcoat just isn't heavy enough. You'll have to use automotive urethane clear coat I believe. |
Candy Vardy 09.06.2013 | Nice! I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my decks. Today I bought new technics decals, a blue led light kit, and new metal pitch decals. All I need to do now is the respray, and mine will be looking good! Looking forward to seeing the final pics mate! |
Brunilda Kora 09.06.2013 | Looks nice! |
Gaynell Rydberg 08.06.2013 | Almost done! |
Gaynell Rydberg 28.05.2013 | You don't want paint getting into the crevice, especially when using sandable primer. And the sticker is already peeled off. |
Jeffrey Akinsanya 28.05.2013 | i wouldn't of masked the tempo marker - its just a sticker it peels off, id replace with new fresh ones. |
Gaynell Rydberg 27.05.2013 | Updated with some new pictures! |
Gaynell Rydberg 26.05.2013 | Haha, well hopefully this one works unlike my S2 project. Gave up on trying to desolder those pins. |
Rena Estabrook 25.05.2013 | I never seem to get sick of restoration pics. |
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