LED Mod Issue
LED Mod Issue Ean/Fatlimey/Anyone, I've tried the LED Mod on my newer edition board (190 of 500) with two different LEDs and I'm not getting the LED to emit at all. I know I've shorted the thing properly (did it with just a soder joint), but no matter which way or side of the board I insert the LED light, it never Illuminates on the beat. I know I have Traktor configured properly and the MIDIfighter in/outs selected properly as well. It looks like I may have created a small scratch/chip on the 'left' port where the longer stem of the LED is suppose to go on the MidiFighter side of the circuit board (closer to what looks like a '1002' component). Not sure if that is causing the issue. But the rest of the MidiFighter operates as it should. Any Ideas? | |
| 30.12.2010 | Ean/Fatlimey/Anyone, I've tried the LED Mod on my newer edition board (190 of 500) with two different LEDs and I'm not getting the LED to emit at all. I know I've shorted the thing properly (did it with just a soder joint), but no matter which way or side of the board I insert the LED light, it never Illuminates on the beat. I know I have Traktor configured properly and the MIDIfighter in/outs selected properly as well. It looks like I may have created a small scratch/chip on the 'left' port where the longer stem of the LED is suppose to go on the MidiFighter side of the circuit board (closer to what looks like a '1002' component). Not sure if that is causing the issue. But the rest of the MidiFighter operates as it should. Any Ideas? |
| Lashonda Corris 09.06.2012 | Update to thread for traktor 2.5 update plz DJTT |
| 07.01.2011 | Appreciated Fatlimey. Will be standing by test and give it a whirl when ready. |
| robert chanda 07.01.2011 | Not only does the Traktor clock lag, it also drifts quite astonishingly! It's pretty much what users who were syncing two copies of Traktor over MIDI Clock were saying, the latest versions's MIDI clock is next to useless. Testing with the Ableton Live clock finally convinced me I need to sharpen up the look. A minor patch coming soon. |
| 07.01.2011 | @Fatlimey Would Mad appreciate that on a future firmware update, now that you've made that process super easy to do now. I'm sure others would too. Have you also noticed the lag? |
| robert chanda 07.01.2011 | Hmm, I may need to alter the LED flashing pattern to make it appear more "on beat"... |
| 07.01.2011 | I haven't tried that, but not a bad idea. If I rip open the MidiFighter again, i may give it a try. |
| Lorelei Przybylowicz 07.01.2011 | Hey guys, Quick question - will the MidiFighter be able to power two LEDs? One on the top and one of the bottom of the MF? |
| 06.01.2011 | Fat Limey, I'm happy to report that my new High Output LEDs came in and it worked first try. Parts make all the difference for sure. I ended up picking up some ORANGE 3mm 4000mcd LEDs, where the viewing angle is pretty narrow at 15 degrees. Picked up 'em up real cheap on Amazon. My only gripe now is the Beat Flashing is lagging behind my VCI-100SE beat flashing. Can't measure precisely obviously, but it's is definitely behind. I tried messing with midi offset, but I really don't believe that is the proper solution here. The LEDs that blink in beat on my VCI-100SE (with 1.4 firmware) are definitely visually correct, based on feel of the music. Any thoughts on how to tighten up the slight lag on the MIDI Figher LED Beat Clock Flash Mod? Is anybody else experiencing this? Here are some Shots of the MOD in the DARK. |
| 31.12.2010 | Fatlimey, thanks for the quick response on things. I had picked up these items from "The Shack" as it is within walking distance from home. For the 220 Ohm resistor, I had found this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062317 That should suffice, right? For the LED, I had picked up this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062551 and http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062554 and even one of these to try out: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3060979 I had successfully soldered the Resistor to the LEDs and did so on the 'positive' side of the LED, however, given your commentary, it appears that these Radio Shack LEDs may not have enough MCD juice as you have spec'd out. I also tried just touching the leads of the LEDs various ways on the circuit board to get the light to illuminate after I failed the first time from soldering with no luck. I'll try ordering those Avargo LEDs from Jameco unless you believe ones from the Shack should work. Are you suggesting I still need to update my firmware? I can boot into Menu Mode already with the firmware I have that shipped with the unit this month (december 2010). If I need to still flash my firmware, I'll wait for that Mac app comes out to do that firmware flashing (I do have a PC but it's not currently hooked up). For testing 'continuity' which chip is the correct microcontroller and pin6? cheers. |
| robert chanda 30.12.2010 | On an LED, the longer lead is the positive one. On the board there are two pads, one square (ground) and one rounded (positive). You will also need a 220ohm resistor in series with the LED, although it doesn't matter which side of the LED you put it. I used a 220 ohm 1002 resistor next to the micro-controller rather than shorting the pads because I have some around (they look like tabletop lint when you unpackage them) but we decided to demonstrate the easier through-hole component version of the build as it's the easiest one to get parts for. The LEDs I decided to use are Green, T1, 3mm, 2400mcd High Output LEDs. (From Avago Technologies, part QLMP-LM98, if you care). Any other T1 3mm LEDs would do fine so long as their brightness is in the 2000mcd+ range. The scratched pad is the one that connects to ground so don't worry if you've scratched off some of the protective paint around it. So long as the pad is still present on the board it's OK. Your jumper joint looks OK, not very shiny but it probably makes the connection. You can check, with the MF powered off, using a multimeter that has a "continuity" setting by touching pin 6 on the micro-controller and the rounded pad for the LED and making sure they are electrically connected - the multimeter should make a beep to tell you they are. Continuity checking is great for testing solder joints. Have you added a resistor to your LED? If not, it may be burned out already. If you have, you should test it before soldering it in place by just touching the LED legs on the pads to see if it lights. The LED should light if you have updated your firmware but won't if you haven't updated yet. If the touch test works, you can make the mod permanent and solder the LED into place. Good luck, give it another go. |
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