Restoring Technics
Restoring Technics Posted on: 27.05.2012 by Jenise Kryszak So I'm on a mission to get my pair of mk2's looking great. I've been looking up videos on taking them apart, but I just don't know how to clean cabinet and tonearm base/height adjusment thing properly. There's a whole lot of gunk/dust in the crevices and I'm not really sure how to approach it. I was believeing of just taking it apart and using windex or soap water on it to see what I could scrape off. Anyone have some experience in restoring technics? I don't really want to buy new cabinets for them because they're around $150 each. | |
| Brunilda Kora 27.07.2012 | Xone - is that instrument cable you've used fr the upgraded interconnects? How are the cables stuck together along their length? I've only seen single cables... |
| Emely Metz 27.07.2012 | ^^ looking sleek as usual |
| Romelia Stankard 26.07.2012 | just finished these finally after waiting for various little parts to come in (only have so many pics since they are going right on craigslist) |
| Ira Alsadi 26.07.2012 | Looks really good. Congrats! |
| Emely Metz 25.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by Patch
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| Brunilda Kora 24.07.2012 | "Not too shabby" is an understatement,mate - that is a nice looking TT! |
| Emely Metz 24.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by Xonetacular
I've heated the surface using hair dryer and slowly pressing the sticker using using my hand, no squeegee is necessary...then blow the surface again after wrapping, pressing the CF a bit harder this time to let trapped bubble out from the seams before bending/tucking them in the corners. This is textured CF, heats within seconds, easy application but also get cold very fast & stays in place after that. FYI, this is the "problematic" deck i've scored on ebay last time...where there is some 'drama' about it & the seller...i'm glad it ends up not too shabby after all |
| Romelia Stankard 24.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by Luconia
that looks pretty good, details on what you did/used? Is that just stick on CF or what? |
| Emely Metz 24.07.2012 | it's textured CF...i thought it was cool not going to let the leftover CF to waste hence i stick it there...the slipmat are ok & still can do backspin, but i'm believeing of getting a plastic layer between them and the slipmat later just to minimise the rubbing sound :P (i dont scratch btw, only occasional straight mixing) |
| Brunilda Kora 24.07.2012 | That looks pretty damn nice! I'd lose the CF from the platter though - that might interfere with your slip mats. Unless its smooth, not textured CF? |
| Emely Metz 24.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by audiolive
if not for all your advise in this community & a lot of research i'll never make it happened |
| Claude Koveleski 24.07.2012 | Nice work mate.Its come up sweet |
| Emely Metz 24.07.2012 | restoration finally completed! done hand waxing & put the leftover CF sticker on the platter too...what do you believe? |
| Jonathan Chiuchiolo 23.07.2012 | hand polishing might work, but forget about a powered rotary buff it will rip the paint right off... |
| Claude Koveleski 23.07.2012 | Yep some autosol and alot of polishing will work |
| Emely Metz 23.07.2012 | OK just finished my platter..used 4-5 coats of flat black paint & wet sanded them down. the paint sticks though but dont know for how long, the sanding makes my platter looks poor i used the finest 2000 grit sandpaper to minimised the 'roughness'. does polishing will somewhat restore the shine of the platter after this? |
| Brunilda Kora 21.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by pizurp
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| Emely Metz 21.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by synthet1c
unless i bought the primer online...hmmm
Originally Posted by pizurp
still looks cool enough on my carbon fiber wrap mod deck |
| Savanna Perimutter 20.07.2012 | oh yeah, and I taped the lil barings and stuff in the tone arm off for the powder coater… just to make sure they didnt get covered. I went ahead and let the fixed 'spikey' pieces get coated. |
| Savanna Perimutter 20.07.2012 | why thanks. The tone-arms are a PAIN! I had to take them apart and put them back together a few times before I got it right. That is one video viperfrank needs to do, a complete tone-arm re-assembly! I personally forgot to put the weird little washer on the bottom of the anti-skating dial, making not 'stick'. And I also forgot the larger lock-ring on the 'height lock' knob thingy that would make it slide up in down, if you pulled on it. There are some helpful images on google, dont remember the link, but just take some good reference photos. Next time (and oh yes, there will be a next time, i have the fever now!) I will not use 'monster' RCA cables, I'll go with something around the stock gauge so that the stress release bushing will fit back on right. Also, just FYI for others out there doing this, stress release bushing pliers are a must for replacing the power cord. But anyways, here are a few shots i have of the arm assembly, not a lot of help… but thats all i took =/ IMG_0781.jpgIMG_0799.jpg |
| Brunilda Kora 20.07.2012 | Vioerfrank is a fuckin' hero. True gent, and super helpful. Now, tell me all about how you painted, and re-assembled those sweet looking tone arm assemblies!!!! |
| Savanna Perimutter 20.07.2012 | kinda forgot about this thread. viperfrank turned out to be my best buddy when I built these: IMG_0807.jpg |
| Savanna Perimutter 20.07.2012 | if your just going with black, u can get a brand new one for around $100, if you want something that will def not chip, search for part number SFTE172-01Z3 |
| Jonathan Chiuchiolo 20.07.2012 | don't spray them without first priming if you are back to bare metal, the paint will have nothing to stick to and flake off in a couple of weeks. I would ask at the shop counter specifically for primer, but because it's bare you may want etch primer to really make the paint last, I have never painted anything with spraycans only cars as a spraypainter, so can't really give advice on the type/brand of paint that's best to use, someone at the store should have some idea, but if not just call a larger store for the information and have the products ordered in at your local. |
| Emely Metz 20.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by audiolive
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| Claude Koveleski 20.07.2012 | Did you strip the old paint all the way back to bare ally? IF so it's possible the paint may flake off. Depends on the paint really. IF you sprayed over the old coat of paint you'll probably be ok. I'd say finish the job off and see what happens. |
| Emely Metz 20.07.2012 |
Originally Posted by audiolive
now what worries me is that do the paint stick properly on the platter since i never found any spray can primer here in my local shop...so i just spray the black paint directly onto the platter... |
| Claude Koveleski 20.07.2012 | because you are using black 2 coats should be plenty. |
| Emely Metz 20.07.2012 | well i could use this thread to post my questions about repainting the platter... So i'm in my last stage of restoration, how many layers do we need to spray the platter dots before sanding them down? yesterday completed my 1st layer...i'm using Anchor brand black spray can. |
| Savanna Perimutter 14.06.2012 | ha, sorry, yes his vids are very helpful glad they are out there… im just saying i would rather follow typed out instructions than follow a video, because of all that re-listening/re-watching involved gets a lil annoying. thats just my opinion tho… |
| Brunilda Kora 14.06.2012 | Talking about viperfrank, are you? His vids are great - just need a detailed step-by-step for disassembling and re-assembling the tone arm and tonearm base... |
| Savanna Perimutter 14.06.2012 |
Originally Posted by djlotus
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| Jenise Kryszak 30.05.2012 |
Originally Posted by Patch
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| Brunilda Kora 30.05.2012 | The devil's in the detail, lotus! It's the little gems of knowledge that you've dropped (like the spring and bearing info) that I really appreciate. |
| Ira Alsadi 30.05.2012 | Sweet. Easier for me. |
| Jenise Kryszak 30.05.2012 | I don't believe you need to post the complete reassembling of a 1200. It's already up on youtube. It's just that some parts were left out like the whole thermal paste thing. |
| Ira Alsadi 30.05.2012 | I was going to send Patch a step-by-step for reassembling a tone arm. If guys like Xone and Nicadraus wouldn't mind, I can post a step-by-step for reassembling a complete 1200. I just don't want to take away from potential clients for those guys. It's an honor system. |
| Ira Alsadi 30.05.2012 | Absolutely. |
| Jenise Kryszak 30.05.2012 | Could I just wipe off the paste that's there and tape over that spot so it doesn't get painted over? |
| Ira Alsadi 30.05.2012 | Another great point. Thanks for bringing this up. A lot if times, damaged components and burned out lights are a direct result of over voltage due to a faulty regulator or connection of. After painting you MUST remove the paint under the regulator and use high temp paste. Same as you would under a CPU fan. Silicone based is the best as it allows for contraction and expansion. |
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