8-Bit NES VCI-100 mod

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8-Bit NES VCI-100 mod
Posted on: 19.08.2008 by Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
so i got this idea:

i want to make this:



look like this:



i'm going to start off by doing the arcade button mod (red buttons) and build slowly from there. i'm a student, so it might take a few months to complete - and i'll keep you guys updated.

does anyone have any suggestions for this? i was believeing of going the wraps route because i want the detail of the middle (the grey stripes) to be the same and i wouldn't have to paint it really at all.

i know people have painted the knobs / sliders, but how about the actual buttons? i was going to try to have the track select as the d-pad.
Random X
21.08.2008
Originally Posted by BentoSan
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
Xavier Emanuels
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by ryan catcher
thanks for the advice and prompt response, you are the man bento.

so to make sure i got this right:
sand the knobs down with 400 grit then apply a coat of plastic primer and regular spray paint?

could i use a panint marker to mark the knobs?

any suggestions on brands of paint / sand paper would be awesome. i'm probably just going to rock 3m sandpaper and krylon paint..
Sand with 400 grit, prime then sand again with 600 grit, then paint it in a polyurethane (make sure your not spraying an enamel, it wont last). After that you could sand them with a 1200 grit and individually cut and polish them to get them super super shiney, if your not a pro at using a spray can you can get away can get away with murder if you put in the time to sand back and cut and polish your work to get it super super shiney, mainly applies to the main vci plate as a whole though, as trying to fix runs on knobs would be very difficult because of all the grooves.

The paint pen could work, but will be prone to wearing off, you could counter that by putting a nice healthy coat of clear coat over the top of the knob and lightly lightly sanding down the face of the knob your putting the pen on with 600 grit before you mark it.

For any product you use, find the product specification data sheet and read that - dont trust the back of paint cans and ever dont ever believe about trusting the front of one. Ive found time and time again that the product specification data sheet has vital information about the product and what it can and cant bond to thats never displayed on the can at all. Don't trust the people in paint stores either, for the most part they are just as bad unless you know a place that specializes in car panel and paint - one would hope that they know what they are talking about. Even then though you should be reading product specification data sheets - preferably before you buy the product to begin with.

Try to stick to pro car products, they are generally higher quality than anything else your going to be able to get your hands on. DIY products generally bite the big one and are always so damn misleading in what the product can and cannot do.

Its also handy especially if you don't do this all the time to stick to all the same brand of products that are designed to go with one another, that way you don't have to worry about paint failing because it reacting badly with the primer coat you put on from another company.

The 3m sand paper is good thats what i use for the most part, it tends to last a bit longer than other brands.
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by BentoSan
Anything that says no sanding or no primer is full of crap, dont believe it, to do anything properly you need to sand and prime it.

Trust me i work in the industry and all the time companies are like these sell things saying no primer or sanding is required, its all total lies. To do a proper job you need to sand and plastic prime before top coating - i can tell you that companies doing this seriously pisses me off the painting industry is full of people using these sorts of products. In most cases theres so such thing as no primer required, especially on such a high wear area like knobs.
thanks for the advice and prompt response, you are the man bento.

so to make sure i got this right:
sand the knobs down with 400 grit then apply a coat of plastic primer and regular spray paint?

could i use a panint marker to mark the knobs?

any suggestions on brands of paint / sand paper would be awesome. i'm probably just going to rock 3m sandpaper and krylon paint..
Xavier Emanuels
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by ryan catcher
alright. i'm going to make the first jump and paint my knobs and the wheels:

i believe for the knobs i'm going to use:



has anyone used this before? does it actually work like it's suppose to?

should get the job done in the next couple days. i'm going to do a "painting your vci-100" step by step tutorial....
Anything that says no sanding or no primer is full of crap, dont believe it, to do anything properly you need to sand and prime it.

Trust me i work in the industry and all the time companies are like these sell things saying no primer or sanding is required, its all total lies. To do a proper job you need to sand and plastic prime before top coating - i can tell you that companies doing this seriously pisses me off the painting industry is full of people using these sorts of products. In most cases theres so such thing as no primer required, especially on such a high wear area like knobs.
Random X
21.08.2008
Originally Posted by BentoSan
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
21.08.2008
Originally Posted by frankdelo
actually all of the Original NES and SNES stuff is now copyright free. Due to nintendo giving the build and contr. plans away for a few years to people who want to build them selves a NES SNES combo system.
really? that's pretty sweet.
Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
sumit toppo
05.09.2008
yoo all..
so this is my mock up..
the aligment its not adjust well
nothing biggy so here it is..



this files is being reduced,
if you need a bigger one I'll send one

cheers
Xavier Emanuels
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by ryan catcher
thanks for the advice and prompt response, you are the man bento.

so to make sure i got this right:
sand the knobs down with 400 grit then apply a coat of plastic primer and regular spray paint?

could i use a panint marker to mark the knobs?

any suggestions on brands of paint / sand paper would be awesome. i'm probably just going to rock 3m sandpaper and krylon paint..
Sand with 400 grit, prime then sand again with 600 grit, then paint it in a polyurethane (make sure your not spraying an enamel, it wont last). After that you could sand them with a 1200 grit and individually cut and polish them to get them super super shiney, if your not a pro at using a spray can you can get away can get away with murder if you put in the time to sand back and cut and polish your work to get it super super shiney, mainly applies to the main vci plate as a whole though, as trying to fix runs on knobs would be very difficult because of all the grooves.

The paint pen could work, but will be prone to wearing off, you could counter that by putting a nice healthy coat of clear coat over the top of the knob and lightly lightly sanding down the face of the knob your putting the pen on with 600 grit before you mark it.

For any product you use, find the product specification data sheet and read that - dont trust the back of paint cans and ever dont ever believe about trusting the front of one. Ive found time and time again that the product specification data sheet has vital information about the product and what it can and cant bond to thats never displayed on the can at all. Don't trust the people in paint stores either, for the most part they are just as bad unless you know a place that specializes in car panel and paint - one would hope that they know what they are talking about. Even then though you should be reading product specification data sheets - preferably before you buy the product to begin with.

Try to stick to pro car products, they are generally higher quality than anything else your going to be able to get your hands on. DIY products generally bite the big one and are always so damn misleading in what the product can and cannot do.

Its also handy especially if you don't do this all the time to stick to all the same brand of products that are designed to go with one another, that way you don't have to worry about paint failing because it reacting badly with the primer coat you put on from another company.

The 3m sand paper is good thats what i use for the most part, it tends to last a bit longer than other brands.
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by BentoSan
Anything that says no sanding or no primer is full of crap, dont believe it, to do anything properly you need to sand and prime it.

Trust me i work in the industry and all the time companies are like these sell things saying no primer or sanding is required, its all total lies. To do a proper job you need to sand and plastic prime before top coating - i can tell you that companies doing this seriously pisses me off the painting industry is full of people using these sorts of products. In most cases theres so such thing as no primer required, especially on such a high wear area like knobs.
thanks for the advice and prompt response, you are the man bento.

so to make sure i got this right:
sand the knobs down with 400 grit then apply a coat of plastic primer and regular spray paint?

could i use a panint marker to mark the knobs?

any suggestions on brands of paint / sand paper would be awesome. i'm probably just going to rock 3m sandpaper and krylon paint..
Xavier Emanuels
24.08.2008
Originally Posted by ryan catcher
alright. i'm going to make the first jump and paint my knobs and the wheels:

i believe for the knobs i'm going to use:



has anyone used this before? does it actually work like it's suppose to?

should get the job done in the next couple days. i'm going to do a "painting your vci-100" step by step tutorial....
Anything that says no sanding or no primer is full of crap, dont believe it, to do anything properly you need to sand and prime it.

Trust me i work in the industry and all the time companies are like these sell things saying no primer or sanding is required, its all total lies. To do a proper job you need to sand and plastic prime before top coating - i can tell you that companies doing this seriously pisses me off the painting industry is full of people using these sorts of products. In most cases theres so such thing as no primer required, especially on such a high wear area like knobs.
Ryan Konarski
24.08.2008
here u got the best tutorial......edited and review done by BENTOSAN LOL on how to paint ur vci

If you want to make it so your VCI doesnt chip or scratch after sanding the unit down it has to be etch primed. Basicly its an acid that eats tiny microscopic holes into the metal so when the metal primer goes over the top of it, the paint makes its way into these holes and really grips onto the unit, this etch prime coat goes on really thin and diluted. Just because its etch primed doesnt mean it doesn't have to be primed, if you don't put conventional metal primer over the top it will still come off.

What really make a paint job expensive is the prep, Eans original VCI got sanded and some paint thrown on over the top of it and it really shows - no primer was used, let alone a etch primer. Clear coats help, but without a doubt the most important coat is the etchprimer and primer coats, they will determine how much of a beating the top coat will be able to take.

Soo... when i am painting my VCI which will be very shortly i will go though these steps
- Sand unit with 400 grit
- Etch prime unit
- Prime unit
- Sand primer with 600 grit
- Paint unit black with two pack polyurethane - 2 or 3 coats
- Cut and polish unit
- Cover with 2 or 3 coats of Clear.

If you want to put some metal flake into your clear thats also possible, however after doing 2 coats with flake in the clear you need to do another one or two coats without any flakes in the clear. This is to make sure all the metallic flake is covered with clear so it doesnt oxidize, if the flake oxidizes it will lose its reflective capabilities and your flakes will look like crap.
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
24.08.2008
alright. i'm going to make the first jump and paint my knobs and the wheels:

i believe for the knobs i'm going to use:



has anyone used this before? does it actually work like it's suppose to?

should get the job done in the next couple days. i'm going to do a "painting your vci-100" step by step tutorial....
Random X
21.08.2008
Originally Posted by BentoSan
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
21.08.2008
Originally Posted by frankdelo
actually all of the Original NES and SNES stuff is now copyright free. Due to nintendo giving the build and contr. plans away for a few years to people who want to build them selves a NES SNES combo system.
really? that's pretty sweet.
DJ JoBlaze
21.08.2008
actually all of the Original NES and SNES stuff is now copyright free. Due to nintendo giving the build and contr. plans away for a few years to people who want to build them selves a NES SNES combo system.

21.08.2008
Tekki, or anyone else that is interested, hit me up on the email eangolden at gmail.com and I will send you the illustrator file you need. The wraps cover the entire vci-100 top and sides so there are no plates just one nice smooth surface that will be the same material used on those Nintendo controllers.

They also will not cover the wheels (as that would remove the touch sensitivity)

Nice one Bento, thats exactly what to do. We cant put Nintendo on there otherwise we will get sued for sure but we can make it look just like them.
Natan/Mateusz Naguszewski/Wierzbicki
21.08.2008
wow guys, much appreciated.

i did find this site: http://logo54.com/game/nintendo/

for generating nintendo fonts

and ean, i believe of doing a run of these wraps would be awesome + sell well.
Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008
The Vestax thingy needs a circle around it like the logo.

needs a little
Random X
20.08.2008
Here goes: version2.

Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008

This is mario in his first appearance when he was known as jumpman back from the donkey-kong NES game Funny to note his nose is nearly the size of his head.


ooo and some trivia, mario has a moustache because they couldn't make a mouth with the limited amount of pixels
Random X
20.08.2008
Jups.. preferably the non multicolour one.
Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008
Originally Posted by tekki
Was believeing of doing the old old old Mario on the bottom white bar and than add "Vestax VCI-100" in a red nintendo font.
the old mario made out of 4 pixels haha
Random X
20.08.2008
Was believeing of doing the old old old Mario on the bottom white bar and than add "Vestax VCI-100" in a red nintendo font.
Xavier Emanuels
20.08.2008
Needs Mario on there somewhere too haha
Random X
20.08.2008
OKay... Here's a small mockup:


You might even mod the directional buttons into one bigger cross design d- pad.
Miloje Savic
20.08.2008
that would be crazy... haha..
Random X
20.08.2008
Will design, if anyone has got a black & white drawing of the VCI-100?
chris zander
20.08.2008
would look exactly like the original nintendo controllers
Copyright?

20.08.2008
could be cool- if some one wants to do the design we could produce a limited edition run of overlay wraps that would look exactly like the original nintendo controllers

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