Removing pitch detent on technics

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Removing pitch detent on technics
Posted on: 13.11.2011 by Ninfa Mazariegos
Watched a few videos on removing the pitch detent on some 1200s and was wondering what the general consensus was on this. Does it make beatmatching any easier/accurate?
Lisa Lochotzki
15.11.2011
Originally Posted by Nicadraus
Trust me, it will need contact grease once the carbon has been cleaned. The grease SHOULD be applied at a very small amount. Otherwise, the brush will scratch/scrape the carbon and its life will be shorter. If you haven't noticed, all new pitch controls are WITH contact grease laid on the carbon. The grease works in 3 ways, protect, lubes the carbon surface and for better contact.
Fair argument as long as the grease is clean and new, and as long as you refer to a small film amount. DeOxit F on the carbon, wipe the exceeding amount and leave it like this.
I have done this countless times. I specialize in Technics SL1200/1210 repair/refurbish/customize/modify so I know what I'm saying. Lastly, cleaning the carbon board is NOT indicated nor mentioned in the service manual. I have all service manuals from MK2, MK3, MK4, MK3D and MK5.
Indeed, cleaning fader is not and will never be documented in any service manual as it's not a viable solution, but for some high end fader (many P&G, some ALPS... but they have their own specific cleaning procedures & chemicals). Changing faders is more indicated anyways for someone running a service center like me. I would never charge for something that cost less to replace than cleaning... at least if the fader are the same generation and don't need a new fader board assy. Last year we serviced exactly 1,153 SL, my best SL year ever.

Cleaning fader is a zen thing to do when you love spending time on your gear, give her love... or when you don't have the replacement parts handy. I'm Not a fan of fader cleaning myself, they never feel like brand new, especially when they're not designed for, but saved my butt a couple of time.
Osvaldo Newhall
14.11.2011
Originally Posted by djproben
Not really worth the effort imho. If the center detent gets in your way just raise/lower the pitch on the other record to avoid it. But it never really gets in my way. I'm sure things are smoother without it, but it seems like a lot of effort for a really minimal payoff.


It may not matter to you but it does to many other DJs including myself.
Osvaldo Newhall
14.11.2011
Originally Posted by DJKeyWee
Indeed you clean the carbon surface, but... If there's one place you don't want grease and lube, it's really on the carbon... it will collect dust for nothing...
Trust me, it will need contact grease once the carbon has been cleaned. The grease SHOULD be applied at a very small amount. Otherwise, the brush will scratch/scrape the carbon and its life will be shorter. If you haven't noticed, all new pitch controls are WITH contact grease laid on the carbon. The grease works in 3 ways, protect, lubes the carbon surface and for better contact.

I have done this countless times. I specialize in Technics SL1200/1210 repair/refurbish/customize/modify so I know what I'm saying. Lastly, cleaning the carbon board is NOT indicated nor mentioned in the service manual. I have all service manuals from MK2, MK3, MK4, MK3D and MK5.
Ninfa Mazariegos
13.11.2011		Watched a few videos on removing the pitch detent on some 1200s and was wondering what the general consensus was on this. Does it make beatmatching any easier/accurate?
Romelia Stankard
16.11.2011		I've done this quite a bit. It's really easy once you already have the tt apart and spend the time getting the 8 million screws out. I did this a lot when I was modding and refurbing technics to sell since I had to clean out a lot of the pitches anyway so there was no reason not to.
Lisa Lochotzki
15.11.2011
Originally Posted by Nicadraus
Trust me, it will need contact grease once the carbon has been cleaned. The grease SHOULD be applied at a very small amount. Otherwise, the brush will scratch/scrape the carbon and its life will be shorter. If you haven't noticed, all new pitch controls are WITH contact grease laid on the carbon. The grease works in 3 ways, protect, lubes the carbon surface and for better contact.
Fair argument as long as the grease is clean and new, and as long as you refer to a small film amount. DeOxit F on the carbon, wipe the exceeding amount and leave it like this.
I have done this countless times. I specialize in Technics SL1200/1210 repair/refurbish/customize/modify so I know what I'm saying. Lastly, cleaning the carbon board is NOT indicated nor mentioned in the service manual. I have all service manuals from MK2, MK3, MK4, MK3D and MK5.
Indeed, cleaning fader is not and will never be documented in any service manual as it's not a viable solution, but for some high end fader (many P&G, some ALPS... but they have their own specific cleaning procedures & chemicals). Changing faders is more indicated anyways for someone running a service center like me. I would never charge for something that cost less to replace than cleaning... at least if the fader are the same generation and don't need a new fader board assy. Last year we serviced exactly 1,153 SL, my best SL year ever.

Cleaning fader is a zen thing to do when you love spending time on your gear, give her love... or when you don't have the replacement parts handy. I'm Not a fan of fader cleaning myself, they never feel like brand new, especially when they're not designed for, but saved my butt a couple of time.
Osvaldo Newhall
14.11.2011
Originally Posted by djproben
Not really worth the effort imho. If the center detent gets in your way just raise/lower the pitch on the other record to avoid it. But it never really gets in my way. I'm sure things are smoother without it, but it seems like a lot of effort for a really minimal payoff.


It may not matter to you but it does to many other DJs including myself.
Danae Dumler
14.11.2011		Not really worth the effort imho. If the center detent gets in your way just raise/lower the pitch on the other record to avoid it. But it never really gets in my way. I'm sure things are smoother without it, but it seems like a lot of effort for a really minimal payoff.
Osvaldo Newhall
14.11.2011
Originally Posted by DJKeyWee
Indeed you clean the carbon surface, but... If there's one place you don't want grease and lube, it's really on the carbon... it will collect dust for nothing...
Trust me, it will need contact grease once the carbon has been cleaned. The grease SHOULD be applied at a very small amount. Otherwise, the brush will scratch/scrape the carbon and its life will be shorter. If you haven't noticed, all new pitch controls are WITH contact grease laid on the carbon. The grease works in 3 ways, protect, lubes the carbon surface and for better contact.

I have done this countless times. I specialize in Technics SL1200/1210 repair/refurbish/customize/modify so I know what I'm saying. Lastly, cleaning the carbon board is NOT indicated nor mentioned in the service manual. I have all service manuals from MK2, MK3, MK4, MK3D and MK5.
Evelyn Navarijo
14.11.2011		I kinda like the pitch "click", I suppose it's all about personal preference, not sure if there's a "better" or "worse" (or maybe I'm just bummed I couldn't find any 1200MK5s eh?)
Philip Degener
13.11.2011		if you plan on spinning out you will most likely still be dealing with the pitch indent.....just something to keep in mind
Lisa Lochotzki
13.11.2011		no, you don't need unless you need to readjust them each 30 minutes or they're impossible to adjust. Even if they're impossible to adjust, those 2 are usually pretty sealed anyways.

Just keep everything free of dust, clean it often with air spray & vacuum. Nothing else to lube. If/When the tonearm act weird, it's high likely you'll have to change it if all regular adjustment fail.
Ninfa Mazariegos
13.11.2011		I read the owners manual, service manual, and service suplement, and all that it says is to add a few drops of their oil to the spindle bearing every 2000 hours of use.

Surely there's more to it than that to maintaining these. What about cleaning? Should I spray some electrical cleaner in the brake and pitch pots?
Teresia Janusch
13.11.2011		the real answer to this is no. there is separate speed adjustments for both +&- on a mk2, if you want to add accuracy, you could reduce the range.


if your bent on doing it, id buy a mk3 pitch slider, it fits perfectly and is dipless as standard, but ul find its just the same
Lisa Lochotzki
13.11.2011		Not a load of things to be lubed in there... I suggest you to grab the service manual, everything is explained inside.
Ninfa Mazariegos
13.11.2011		Just saw your post keywee. Thanks for the tip. What all really needs to be lubed up in there? The play button, tone arm, spindle? What doesn't need lubed?
Ninfa Mazariegos
13.11.2011		Thanks for the info. The reason I ask, I was practicing my beatmatching by playing the record player to an mp3(same track) and I noticed that the record player played just ever so slightly slower than the mp3 when set to the quartz lock. If I tried moving the fader, it was too fast and basically unmatchable. I have heard that the work around is to speed up both tracks to avoid that detent. I watched a video on adjusting the speed screw in the fader, but could I expect to get the speed perfect?

I wouldn't mind lubing up every part while I'm in there. Is there any specific brand of grease that you could recommend and where should I look to find the stuff? Radio shack? Should I use that grease for everything or do I need other stuff too?

Does anyone PREFER to have the pitch detent?
Lisa Lochotzki
13.11.2011		Indeed you clean the carbon surface, but... If there's one place you don't want grease and lube, it's really on the carbon... it will collect dust for nothing. Clean the carbon with DeoXit D5, wipe with a clean cloth, let it dry for few minutes, reassemble the whole thing, enjoy.

I prefer to not have the center click... all personal preference.
Osvaldo Newhall
13.11.2011		Yes. Dipless pitch is so much better especially during precision beat matching.

The procedure will require de-soldering and soldering. You will have to remove the bearing and spring. Also while the pitch control assembly is disassembled, clean the pitch carbon board and the brushes that makes contact with the carbon. Then better to apply contact grease on the board before putting it back together again. The contact grease should be applied at very small amount only and spread it evenly on the carbon board. Lastly, when the assembly has been put back together, you may want to check the calibration first before sealing the cabinet intact.
Kayce Mesia
13.11.2011		I'd assume doing so would make beatmatching more accurate, since the entire range of the fader would have the same resistance. Easier, I wouldn't be so sure about. Beatmatching is a skill that needs to be developed.

I'm in need of some TTs. :l

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