Nanokontrol led help
Nanokontrol led help Posted on: 04.06.2011 by Joan Kollmorgen Ok I recieved a Nanokontrol in the post today that i won on Ebay the other evening
. I'm planning on using this as part of a mod I'm doing.I've just Fixed a broken usb socket and removed all the pots and faders which was straight forward enough. Next up I solder wires to the led's under each button But when i activate the button the led (green one) is too dim? Does anybody know if it's possible to make it brighter somehow? | |
| Janyce Henningson 06.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by extraclassic
How many LEDs were originally on there? If there was less than 24 you will need to rewire your circuit anyway. You will need 12 of these: http://www2.cricklewoodelectronics.c...roductid=15983 Wired like the attachment pic. Total draw when all on is 218mA - well below USB spec. |
| Shana Minsk 07.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by extraclassic
And I'm with all the other geeks on here. I love pictures of wiring. |
| Arcelia Siebeneck 06.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by MrPopinjay
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| Faustino Stringfellow 30.04.2012 | Just to confirm : Absolutely no MIDI control over the scene LED's. Also NO MIDI control on the buttons LED's, but you can make them toggle in the editor. However this is totally pointless, they soon "go out of sync" when you start mapping and playing. I've left them off altogether ..... You also don't need to remove the faders and pots, I've mine still attached and they are working well with 10K linear Pots and 60mm 10K linear slide pots. The hard part is locating the correct solder points and then soldering to them. One thing I did not is that there's no common ground. If you take a ground from one switch pair and connect it to another switch you get different CC's and a different LED light's up. The least wires per switch set is three (with the common ground between the two switches.) |
| Dara Jawor 19.12.2011 | I was curious on what became of this project. I was wanting to play with a NanoKontrol as well. thanks |
| Joan Kollmorgen 06.06.2011 | Ahh that's good to hear. Still gonna do some research on this subject though Thanks |
| Janyce Henningson 06.06.2011 | I didn't realise there was already 24 on there... You should be fine mate - the white/blue/bright green have a higher forward voltage so stick to red/yellow/orange The board will already be wired correctly for this. |
| Joan Kollmorgen 06.06.2011 |
How many LEDs were originally on there?
You will need 12 of these:
http://www2.cricklewoodelectronics.c...roductid=15983 If i was to use red led's would that save me having to add resistors? |
| Janyce Henningson 06.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by extraclassic
How many LEDs were originally on there? If there was less than 24 you will need to rewire your circuit anyway. You will need 12 of these: http://www2.cricklewoodelectronics.c...roductid=15983 Wired like the attachment pic. Total draw when all on is 218mA - well below USB spec. |
| Shana Minsk 07.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by extraclassic
And I'm with all the other geeks on here. I love pictures of wiring. |
| Kiyoko Wellisch 06.06.2011 | No, as far as I can tell no data goes from the computer to the controller. Also it doesn't remember the arrangement as you switch between scenes so a toggled on button will display as an off and requie a few presses to return to the state it was set to. I avoid using the scene change button to be honest. |
| Arcelia Siebeneck 06.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by MrPopinjay
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| Joan Kollmorgen 06.06.2011 |
How many LED's are you gonna be using?
Looking at the board you can see the resistors near the LED's, just check they are the right ones, I can't see the colour bands properly. Do the last couple of pictures help you determine what type of resistor they are? Thanks again Nicky for the all the info. I'm going to do some research on resistors and led's now |
| Kiyoko Wellisch 06.06.2011 | They light when pressed or toggle on off depending on whether you set the buttons to be momentary or toggle in the nano software editor thingy. |
| Arcelia Siebeneck 06.06.2011 | so how do the LED's work then? Are they merely activated when a button is pressed? If so, what happens when you send midi data to the button to turn it on and off? doesn't the LED change state then? |
| Kiyoko Wellisch 06.06.2011 | I love these threads. Every single time I swear I'm going grab a soldering iron and put that GCSE in systems & control technology to use :P One day... Maybe... |
| Joan Kollmorgen 06.06.2011 |
I get geeky goosebumps when I see pictures like this lol
did you remove the old line fader pots? I took all faders and pots off. I wanted to save the little faders but they were hard to remove so i got the snips on them It's a nice easy circuit board to mod but such a shame about no led feedback |
| Arcelia Siebeneck 06.06.2011 |
Originally Posted by extraclassic
did you remove the old line fader pots? |
| Joan Kollmorgen 06.06.2011 |
I'd love to see how you wire your buttons. My connections keep breaking and I really want to just completely rewire my entire project
This is the top row of buttons. And this is the bottom row. The wire I'm using fits nice and snug into those holes highlighted in yellow. If you're having problems with connections breaking what i usually do is try to keep the wire flat to the circuit board and then add some hot glue for extra strength like this |
| Janyce Henningson 05.06.2011 | As for getting the green as bright as the red, from what I remember green LED's need more forward voltage Try a yellow or orange one.. |
| Janyce Henningson 05.06.2011 |
Don't forget to add a resistor as well to keep the current down
Originally Posted by extraclassic
A small change in voltage will result in a big change in current. The LED will get brighter and get hotter, and burn out. If you are using USB for power the source voltage should be 5V DC. There's lots of complcated maths to work stuff out but looking at your eBay link they recommend a resistor of 130 ohm. How many LED's are you gonna be using? Looking at the board you can see the resistors near the LED's, just check they are the right ones, I can't see the colour bands properly. |
| Shana Minsk 05.06.2011 | I'd love to see how you wire your buttons. My connections keep breaking and I really want to just completely rewire my entire project. |
| Joan Kollmorgen 04.06.2011 |
That doesn't look like a green led to me - led's only come in certain colours and I believe that one is yellow-green
Different colour led's require different voltages so I'm guessing the yellow-green one needs more than the red. Or it could just be that the yellow-green one is not as bright - led's come in different brightness. Try changing it for a red one to see if it's the same... Don't forget to add a resistor as well to keep the current down http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GREEN-Standard...item35adf269f7 I bought some orange ones too. I swapped the green led for a red one like you said and it was perfect so now i could do with some advice on getting the green to shine the same as the red Here's a pic with a red led ....
Don't forget to add a resistor as well to keep the current down
The red LED that you've still got there is taking power still as well.
I decided not to bother with the LEDs on my nK mod. You cant program changes on them so I didn't see the point. |
| Shana Minsk 04.06.2011 | The red LED that you've still got there is taking power still as well. I decided not to bother with the LEDs on my nK mod. You cant program changes on them so I didn't see the point. |
| Janyce Henningson 04.06.2011 | That doesn't look like a green led to me - led's only come in certain colours and I believe that one is yellow-green Different colour led's require different voltages so I'm guessing the yellow-green one needs more than the red. Or it could just be that the yellow-green one is not as bright - led's come in different brightness. Try changing it for a red one to see if it's the same... Don't forget to add a resistor as well to keep the current down |
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