DIY-midifighter (umc32 inside)
DIY-midifighter (umc32 inside) Posted on: 31.03.2010 by robin loo hey there..finally, after more than a year and a half wishing to do it, i built my own midi controller. it has 16 arcade buttons, 8 knobs, 2 faders, 2 lit buttons and a membrane poti. the arcade buttons send out the same messages as the MF, so i can easily use the DJTT mapping. the case is wooden and actually an old box for microscope slides from my mum drilled the holes and got them in shape with a dremel. since i have no experience in planing a surface like this in illustrator for example, i did everything more or less by eye. so it's pretty ghetto and some things just went a little bit wrong the costs were: umc32 (sparkfun): ~7€ (payed the shipping only, cause i scored on the free givaway day ) softpot: ~15€ breakout board and button pads: 6€ fader: ~10€ potis: 9,60€ knobs: 12€ (still did not find the right ones ) arcade buttons: 25€ a lot of small stuff like wires, leds, usb adapter: ~30€ so a total of around 115€/150$ the two faders still are not working, cause as soon as i activate them in the umc-configure tool they send out random messages as if they weren't connected :-( here are some more pics: http://yfrog.com/jbcimg2553jx | |
robin loo 14.01.2013 |
Originally Posted by 32Digits
Originally Posted by troopa
i am pretty sure it can be done with a teensy as well.. |
robin loo 31.03.2010 | hey there.. finally, after more than a year and a half wishing to do it, i built my own midi controller. it has 16 arcade buttons, 8 knobs, 2 faders, 2 lit buttons and a membrane poti. the arcade buttons send out the same messages as the MF, so i can easily use the DJTT mapping. the case is wooden and actually an old box for microscope slides from my mum drilled the holes and got them in shape with a dremel. since i have no experience in planing a surface like this in illustrator for example, i did everything more or less by eye. so it's pretty ghetto and some things just went a little bit wrong the costs were: umc32 (sparkfun): ~7€ (payed the shipping only, cause i scored on the free givaway day ) softpot: ~15€ breakout board and button pads: 6€ fader: ~10€ potis: 9,60€ knobs: 12€ (still did not find the right ones ) arcade buttons: 25€ a lot of small stuff like wires, leds, usb adapter: ~30€ so a total of around 115€/150$ the two faders still are not working, cause as soon as i activate them in the umc-configure tool they send out random messages as if they weren't connected :-( here are some more pics: http://yfrog.com/jbcimg2553jx |
Kellie Myrum 01.08.2013 | Nice and cool stuff! You still rocking it? |
Awilda Boggie 15.01.2013 | meh I actually thought 25USD but wrote euro ^^ I wonder if sanwa buttons really differ from other chinese buttons, because they are one of the most expensive ones :O |
robin loo 14.01.2013 |
Originally Posted by 32Digits
Originally Posted by troopa
i am pretty sure it can be done with a teensy as well.. |
Lori Altmiller 30.12.2012 | How have you set it so you can use the midifighter maps? This is exactly what i want to do, can it be done with a teensy? |
Awilda Boggie 29.12.2012 | where did you get the arc buttons from? 16 for 25euro's? |
Santiago Brasier 23.07.2012 | Indeed sounds like you might have the faders "floating" without a clear state. A pull-up or pull-down should do the trick. If you have that already, check your soldering. We had similar issues once on our build and realized it was due to poor contact. And well done! Love these DIY builds! =) Cheers |
Rashida Stieb 19.07.2012 | Good stuff. |
Chau Honrado 13.02.2011 | not sure if youve resolved it or not yet, but you may need pull down resistors, just to ensure clean signal an might resolve the random data issue with the faders? oh and, awesome controller! |
robin loo 10.01.2011 | i didnt map the arcade buttons, cause i changed the midi messages they were sending with the configuration utility from the website (http://www.halemicro.com/Products/Products.html). the other controls i just mapped to my needs (line faders deck C/D, knobs to FX units 3 & 4) the red wire on the ribbon cable is indeed the ground, that you can daisy chain without problems. the other grey cables are one control each (either button, knob, fader or LED), which can be defined in the config utility mentioned above.. read the manual of the umc32, there are a ton of infos otherwise KG (the creator of the chip) helps a lot in his community http://community s.halemicro.com/ |
Dillon Paganini 09.01.2011 | so did you just have to map it into traktor after building it? Also I was wondering if you could elaborate on the wiring. I have been looking at the umc32 but I don't get how the IDC cable would work. Is it like for the 4 connector pins of the UMC32 you either have to have it dedicated to analog and digital? Is the red wire the ground that you daisy chained the grey for the other connections on the push buttons? Thanks |
Adolf Hit 31.03.2010 | Super cool dude! |
robin loo 31.03.2010 | thanks, diezdiazgiant herbstrike: you can get the upgrade utility, the firmware and the config tool here: http://halemicro.com/Products/Products.html |
Rebbecca Fennell 31.03.2010 | looks really nice man |
Estefana Musfeldt 31.03.2010 | yeah i have had it working worked for about 3 days then i went back to it and it would not work i'm using it on a mac where do i get the program from? |
robin loo 31.03.2010 | thanks try putting all the DIN switchen on the unit to ON and configure the chip with the tool which is provided by hale. note that if you configure an output as analog it has to be conected otherwise it will send out random messages.. what platform are you on?! get the lastest firmware. the community s at hale are really good, cause KG, the owner, provides a great service by helping everyone very quickly.. |
Estefana Musfeldt 31.03.2010 | this is sick good work i have issues with my umc32 at the mo when i plug it in the red led just stays on and won't connect to tracktor or my laptop this is what i have done http://www.djranking s.com/community /sho...lerism+project |
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