Can someone suggest me an amp for these?
Can someone suggest me an amp for these? Posted on: 11.04.2013 by Mitsuko Fanucchi http://www.guitarcenter.com/JBL-JRX1...48-i1152806.gcI am about to purchase these speakers, but I need an amp. I know very little about amps, but my buddy sais I will need an amp that can do 2 channels 500 watts @ 4 ohms. there are about a million and a half different amps on amazon and similar sites of varying brands and prices (quality?). Could someone who knows a bit more about this suggest me an amp that will push these as far as their potential (getting everything i paid for)? Thanks! | |
Dannie Dimora 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
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Audria Pechman 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by grandlethal
1. Are you going to be moving these speakers around from place to place? If so you are asking to have a bad time every time you have to setup. I have EV eliminator cabs with a single 15" and they are way to big in hindsight. This is a VERY important thing to consider. Don't buy something unless you see them in person and try picking them up. Then imagine loading and unloading them in your vehicle. 2. The F3 of those speakers is 50hz. Now that sounds good but the truth is that is where they fall like a rock. They are setup like a 2.5way speaker wich will give you low end but it will not be on the same level as a decent sub. If you are playing bass heavy music (dubstep, DnB) then you are going to want a sub at some point. You can always add one later no matter what you get but a sub/sat setup is much easier to move around. |
Mitsuko Fanucchi 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
It's mostly cause I would be dropping 1200$ on these JBLs and the fact that someone says "don't expect much bass", out of my 1200$, I'm a bit... reluctant now hahaha. |
Alphonso Deitchman 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
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Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by grandlethal
2) Ohms and watts are units of respectively resistance to load and power. To put it easily: the less ohms the speaker has, the less watts needed for the amp to make it go loud. Or like this: if an amp puts out 1000watts per channel when connected to an 8ohm speaker, it will put out 2000 watts when connected to a 4ohm speaker, 4000 watts to a 2ohm speaker and so on. Lower ohmage speakers that retain sound quality without distortion are difficult to make (a lot of technical mumbojumbo here, not going to explain it all), but take in more power and are louder in SPL. Now, the jbl's are rated at 500 continuous. This means that they can take a continuous sine wave at, say, 100hz, at 500w output, without damage. 1000 peak means that they can take 1000 watts but for short amounts of time, say, kick drums. A sine wave at 1000w will probably blow the speakers in less then a minute. The behringer has a rating of 3000wpc PEAK, this means they can't amplify a signal to 3000watts power for more than very short amounts of time. Continuous power you're looking at about 600 watts, which is right there with the speakers. With amps you need headroom. This means that you should use an amp that is more powerful than the speakers it's driving. Since 600wpc really is there, you might get into amp clipping (google that up if you're interested). So, as many up there said, get the 6000 |
Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Rena Estabrook 17.04.2013 | I've used those speakers with a QSC RMX1850HD. Great setup. Adding a sub or two is a nice bonus but may not even be necessary. |
Dannie Dimora 17.04.2013 | For 1k it's pretty difficult to find a good 2.2 setup with some punch, unless you find an used one... You could spend a little more on the sats and build yourself 2 subs... But in the end it would probably cost you more than buying the good ones in the first place.. Personally i'd get the jbl's and when i get some more money add two active 18's What kind of music will you be playing? |
Mitsuko Fanucchi 16.04.2013 | Hm, so it seems if I really want bass I should get a sub+sat set up, plus it will be more mobile it sounds like? And bass is the main focus here, so I'd rather not sacrifice weight and mobility for an all-in-one sort of thing. Is 1000$ going to get me a good sub(s) and speakers to go along with it? I just have no idea what goes into all of it, is it simply speakers sub and an amp? What do I need to look for? Or is there somewhere I could find a good set-up for around that much. I'd start with those, but I don't know how much more money I could get towards this and I really want the most out of that rather than make up for it later. googled some stuff but I can't sift out whats just for home use and entire focus on quality versus mobility and more bass heavy? Just rather inconclusive searches... tldr: What's my best bet for a mobile, bass heavy system for around 1000$. |
Dannie Dimora 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
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Jerica Salava 15.04.2013 | get the NU6000 DSP. a DSP is a an amazing tool. |
Ethel Feigum 16.04.2013 | I'v sen a dj with those cabs, base sounded pretty good... Is there a guitar center near you? Go try some out. You could always start with those and add a sub later on if you need it. |
Audria Pechman 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by grandlethal
1. Are you going to be moving these speakers around from place to place? If so you are asking to have a bad time every time you have to setup. I have EV eliminator cabs with a single 15" and they are way to big in hindsight. This is a VERY important thing to consider. Don't buy something unless you see them in person and try picking them up. Then imagine loading and unloading them in your vehicle. 2. The F3 of those speakers is 50hz. Now that sounds good but the truth is that is where they fall like a rock. They are setup like a 2.5way speaker wich will give you low end but it will not be on the same level as a decent sub. If you are playing bass heavy music (dubstep, DnB) then you are going to want a sub at some point. You can always add one later no matter what you get but a sub/sat setup is much easier to move around. |
Mitsuko Fanucchi 15.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
It's mostly cause I would be dropping 1200$ on these JBLs and the fact that someone says "don't expect much bass", out of my 1200$, I'm a bit... reluctant now hahaha. |
Alphonso Deitchman 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
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Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 | Waot, do you mean like active speakers? Actives are a good choice since thrir amps are calibated to the power rating if the speaker. But they're expensive... You could get a pair of 15 tops and a pair of 15 subs for a little more than what the jbl's cost. But then you'd have 4 pieces+mounting poles+4speakon cables+4x power cables with extensions +mixer...... While with the jbl's +amp you'd have 2 boxes, 1 power cable, and one pair of interconnects. Active dual 15's are bloody expensive, too. Your choice |
Mitsuko Fanucchi 14.04.2013 | So 6000 it is... But before i commit, would it really make more sense to not buy these sort of "all-in-one" floor speakers and go for the individual pieces? I really want bass the most, but I don't want to sacrifice sound quality just for more "loudness", but would I get more bang for my buck buying something less... put together for me? |
Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by grandlethal
2) Ohms and watts are units of respectively resistance to load and power. To put it easily: the less ohms the speaker has, the less watts needed for the amp to make it go loud. Or like this: if an amp puts out 1000watts per channel when connected to an 8ohm speaker, it will put out 2000 watts when connected to a 4ohm speaker, 4000 watts to a 2ohm speaker and so on. Lower ohmage speakers that retain sound quality without distortion are difficult to make (a lot of technical mumbojumbo here, not going to explain it all), but take in more power and are louder in SPL. Now, the jbl's are rated at 500 continuous. This means that they can take a continuous sine wave at, say, 100hz, at 500w output, without damage. 1000 peak means that they can take 1000 watts but for short amounts of time, say, kick drums. A sine wave at 1000w will probably blow the speakers in less then a minute. The behringer has a rating of 3000wpc PEAK, this means they can't amplify a signal to 3000watts power for more than very short amounts of time. Continuous power you're looking at about 600 watts, which is right there with the speakers. With amps you need headroom. This means that you should use an amp that is more powerful than the speakers it's driving. Since 600wpc really is there, you might get into amp clipping (google that up if you're interested). So, as many up there said, get the 6000 |
Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Mitsuko Fanucchi 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
Ack, I'm trying to learn all this speaker stuff, but there is just so much I don't know/understand. It's like I have this money (I'm willing to drop like 1200 maximum), and I want a badass set-up, that will be at least moderately portable, and not a massive bitch to set up.
Originally Posted by Polygon
So.... Both Jbls that require 500watts @ 4ohms require a 6000 watt amp? Is the 500 watts @ 4 ohms describing what the minimum is? Or what you'd need to push em as far as they can safely go. Because that's what I'm looking for, I feel like if I'm going to invest in some speakers I at least want the ability to push them to their potential even if it's not always needed (I know all you guys would agree it feels awesome to have all that power) |
Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Dannie Dimora 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by nubz69
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Alphonso Deitchman 14.04.2013 | No, the iNuke 3000 will not cut it for those speakers. Go for the iNuke 6000, QSC GX7, or similar. |
Mitsuko Fanucchi 14.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by nubz69
What would you suggest? I can't imagine trying to plan out my own sub and all the other speakers stuff to combine to create a good sound system. And also guys, I'm still a bit unclear haha, will the 3000 cut it or no? Everyone keeps going back and forth on that. |
Audria Pechman 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by grandlethal
As for power ratings on amps, I have pushed my ev eliminators to excessive levels using a hafler TA1600 (about 75wrms). The spakers have such a high sensitivity that even a few watts gets them into the 100db range. Focus on getting an amp that is going to be reliable and if you get serious you will want a backup. |
Ethel Feigum 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by loverocket
"speakers are rated after testing with a continuous signal but music by its very nature varies in volume so speakers can easily handle short term peaks without overheating. Since the whole point of a PA is to give an undistorted sound and amp distortion sounds horrible it is better to have plenty of power in reserve. It is ok to have headroom of 6dB which is 4x the power so you can have a 1200W amp running a 300W speaker so long as you don't go into clipping. This is why almost all PA amps have clipping indicators, if you are running an over-powered amp into a speaker you really must not let the clip light come on. Most of the big hire companies compromise with 2X the rated power." |
Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
In a club i'm resident at, they are using a battery of 10 nu3000s and 6 6000s to drive some pretty big boxes. And i was there when they were still testing the system. One amp and a pair of mains were loud enough to hear the music outside. And it's a pretty big place, too |
Alphonso Deitchman 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
Here are some actual results from Tools4music: Peak power 20ms/1000Hz 8 Ohm 2x465 4 Ohm 2x870 2 Ohm 2x1700 RMS (sine wave)) 8 Ohm 2x312 4 Ohm 2x600 (2x375 after 3 seconds) 2 Ohm 2x1176 (2x750 after 1 second, protect after 5 seconds) Similar results here: http://www.diyaudio.com/community s/class...surements.html You'll need the iNuke 6000 for those 1000w JBLs, which is just 2x 3000s bridged in the same box. |
Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
OP will probably use them for mobile parties and such. Having a lightweight amp really helps. |
Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Jerica Salava 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
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Ethel Feigum 11.04.2013 | @ loverocket, that amp pushes 700 watts per channel at 4ohms, should be just enough. For $200 more The GX7 runs 1000 per channel and would be ideal. The extra $$ you spend on a QSC makes a difference a few years down the road when that Beringher craps out. Buy quality or buy twice. |
Alphonso Deitchman 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by Polygon
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Jerica Salava 11.04.2013 | I sold my old QSC RMX1450 last year for $200. It weighed 45 lbs. Screw that. |
Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by makar1
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Alphonso Deitchman 11.04.2013 | The QSC GX7 is 7kg whereas the iNuke 6000 is 5.5kg. Hardly a significant difference. Also the fans on the iNukes are supposedly very loud. |
Dannie Dimora 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
Inukes are reliable and cheap. I don't hate on non-D amps, but you have to agree they have gotten a lot better in the past years. |
Jerica Salava 11.04.2013 |
Originally Posted by jakeintox
> |
Ethel Feigum 11.04.2013 | This should do you right http://www.guitarcenter.com/QSC-GX5-...52-i1388205.gc |
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