Midi-fighter Acrylic Design Files
Midi-fighter Acrylic Design Files Posted on: 10.01.2010 by Adolf Hit Here are the design files for the Midifighter acrylic top & bottom platesOne set is dimensioned, the other is only the outline. Printing the outlines on an a4 sheet will give you a template with the correct dimensions. The archive contains the DXF files which are handy for having acrylic and overlays cut for you. | |
| Adolf Hit 10.01.2010 | Here are the design files for the Midifighter acrylic top & bottom plates One set is dimensioned, the other is only the outline. Printing the outlines on an a4 sheet will give you a template with the correct dimensions. The archive contains the DXF files which are handy for having acrylic and overlays cut for you. |
| Vernie Beharry 02.11.2010 | Does anyone know the countersink for the corners for the top plate? I'm planning on the "custom arcade controller" blogpost and I'm in the process of getting the acrylic case made. |
| Latrice Boever 14.10.2010 | It wont let me download the files. I am logged in but says that I am not. I can reply (hence why u see this but can not download) |
| Adolf Hit 20.07.2010 | 24.00 mm will be ok, it will just be a bit harder to force the buttons in. I have used 24 mm drill bits and it has worked fine. When finalising the design I had to try a few different holes sizes to make the buttons easy to insert, yet jam in there firmly as they rely of a force fit to stay snug. ps sorry about the ages taking reply... |
| Elba Kipp 20.07.2010 | Yeah, I had a piece of brass alloy cut for a MF plate... they totally botched it on a cad bit machine thing... glad I caught it before i sent it to the chrome shop |
| Gianna Renfer 12.03.2010 | true... 23.5 and 24.1 are very very accurate measurements, i would 'assume' that 24mm holesaw would do the trick. thats also what i would do. as much as i would like to do the fabrication myself, as perfect as i could make it, a CNC router is 100000000% better lol $$$ well spent. but thats just me im in Australia, so people with CNC machines are all around do need a moderator on this one though.. |
| Rebecka Ockert 12.03.2010 | Good question... I was going to have my top panel custom fabricated, but I believe I'm just going to do something by hand to save $$$. I was just planning to try a 24mm hole saw bit to see if that made a good fit. Unfortunately this doesn't answer your question, since I've yet to attempt this and can't yet provide results... but, if someone else (moderator???) wants to chime in, please do! |
| Gianna Renfer 11.03.2010 | i noticed in the djtt store the measurement on the arcade buttons is 23.5 but on the PDF for the midi fighter is a diameter of 24.1 so which do i drill for my custom top plate??? also, you probably get this all the time, but the analog joystick midi fighter? will it be making a return or do i have to mod my PCB? thanks in advance |
| Rebecka Ockert 15.02.2010 | Thanks.... good to know... I need to check out the assembly video again to see the bungs you spoke of. I'm also considering, as an option, to try to cut a top plate out of hard board by hand.... my hand... which probably isn't that skilled. I do have access to other much more skilled woodworking type people who could assist, but the precision required to cut the light-pipe holes and the exact placement of the buttons could pose a problem. I'm still playing with the FrontPanelExpress.com CAD software, but, I'm afraid that will just end up being too expensive if I can do a decent job myself... My internal debate continues... |
| Random X 15.02.2010 | Yeay! Thanks bro! |
| Adolf Hit 15.02.2010 | The absolute accuracy is just not that great - especially with water jets cutting, a difference of .1 of a mm can make for much more sloppy light pipes, or pipes that dont fit at all. Laser cutters can acheive good enough accuracy if you run them slow, but that costs you more money. The light pipes themselves are 2.6 mm diameter so if you drilled the holes to that size most would stay in place with the little rubber bungs, however some are hard to get it and you might break them if you are not super careful. This is why we opted to go for 2.7 mm and the bungs. |
| Rebecka Ockert 15.02.2010 | Thanks for the reply! I know nothing about machining, so I have probably a stupid question (just for my knowledge)... why can't their machine laser/water cut the hole to 2.7 mm? Would they use a machine to automatically drill the 2.7 mm holes? Is being able to drill a 2.7 mm hole a pretty common size? (i.e. would most shops be able to perform this)? Like I said... I am totally ignorant on this subject, so please forgive me. Thanks! |
| Adolf Hit 15.02.2010 | 2.7 mm diameter assuming they would drill that rather than laser / water jet cut it. If its going to be cut rather than drilled get it cut at 2 mm then drill it out afterwards. |
| Rebecka Ockert 15.02.2010 | Regarding the top plate: The pdf says that the LED holes are radius 1.0 mm, but the little not to the side says "...then drilled to 1.35 Rad". So, if I was going to have a top plate fabricated by someone out of aluminum, should I specify these holes should be 1.00 mm radius, or 1.35 mm radius? Thanks! |
| Arlene Schmauch 13.01.2010 | Thanks again!!! Can't wait to get designing! |
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