Technic Turntable/Shure M44-7 Skipping
Technic Turntable/Shure M44-7 Skipping Posted on: 25.12.2011 by Hassie Loon Hey guys.Got two technic 1200 mk2 (used), new rane ttm56s, shure m447 carts. When I scratch I get the needles jumping at times. I always keep the anti skate at 0 but turn the little round thing underneath the tonearm to 2.5 or 3. I have tried 0 also. I've followed various tutorials online and youtube. Its hard to do intensive scratching because the needles skips just a little. I've calibrated the tonearm several times. Should I replace both Tonearms with a new one? Five months ago I got new rcas and cables replaced on both turntables. These needles are fairly new. I've cleaned them off also. Maybe the records I'm using are just fairly scratched up or warped? Any suggestions is appreciated. | |
| Margie Pavell 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by jimbrowski00
i am not sure if i have a one sided piece of vinyl...time to dig a little...i believe i do...hmmm... |
| Nisha Latkowski 29.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by keithace
|
| Osvaldo Newhall 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by fashion master
:eek: |
| Tashia Mcdunn 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by keithace
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIBtZR941Yw |
| Osvaldo Newhall 27.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by funkyfresh
Repainting the 1200s is no problem as long as the proper disassembling and assembling is done. Plus putting the tonearm back together and calibrating them, pitch control calibration, brake adjustment, de-soldering and soldering tiny wires, etc. Not to discourage you but putting the height ring adjuster is very tricky. There are six way to put it back but only one is right. I also wouldn't suggest using the faceplate covers because it only tends to scratch on the base frame and flushes the buttons lower. Also, it's a complete waste of money. |
| Osvaldo Newhall 26.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by paw_20
-the magnet has been cracked or chipped. -the actual platter has been damaged severely. -the center hole has been damaged and makes the platter wobble and unstable. But if none of these symptoms are showing any signs, then there is no need to replace the platter. If this is what the guy told you, then he doesn't know shit about 1200s. Also, if the bearings in your tonearm are fine and the pivot bridges, screws and arm itself is not damaged, then there is no need to replace the tonearm. All it needs is proper calibration. |
| Tandy Fillipi 13.01.2012 | The best way is to re-calibrate the swivel pivot screw on top. |
| Len Lukawski 08.01.2012 | I ca highly recommend that Viperfrank YT channel that was just posted. He goes through just about every aspect on setting up, servicing and repairing Technics. I had some scratching issues with my decks and found that I needed to do a number of things in order to get the setup right. 1. Balance tonearm - the monkey that sold me the decks had put the counter weights on in reverse and I was a monkey for not spotting that immediately. I know some people do that to add as much weight as possible but I believe its necessary and damaging to the kit. 2. Tone arm height adjust - I still don't believe mine is spot on but it's certainly better than it was. 3. Changed slipmats. I had some very average Glowtronics felt mats. I got a pair of butter rugs and can't recommend them highly enough. One thing I will say though, because they are soooooooooooooo thin they do feel differently to scratch on and require a lighter hand (for me anyway) which I believe is a good thing. The more I learn about scratching the more I am realizing that slow and careful will always create a better result than fast and furious. 4. Needle Setup - I used Ortofons for years ago but I now use the Shure M77s. Initially I only had one deck so when I got a needle and cart and fitted it to the headshell. I did a pretty average job fitting it so for when I needed a 2nd needle I got the M477 needle/cart/headshell combo. I just wanted to remove my manual dexterity issues from the equation! 5. Fitted an Innofader to the mixer - So this has nothing directly do with the TT but getting much cleaner cuts with the crossfader has probably relaxed my overall. Have a look at the 2 vids below. The scratching is pretty wank on both of them (just starting to learn) but the second video has most of the changes and reflects at very least a slightly more relaxed technique. BEFORE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dQPL...b5AUAAAAAAAGAA AFTER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3779p...d6AUAAAAAAABAA |
| Margie Pavell 03.01.2012 | we should have a central video sticky thread that only mods can post to...i would love to have all the videos in one place... |
| Ira Alsadi 02.01.2012 | That is the best explanation of anti-skate I've seen to date. Good find. That video should be stickied. |
| Tashia Mcdunn 28.12.2011 | I dont have a one sided vinyl either so I just use my slip mat and take the needle off my cartridge. |
| Margie Pavell 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by jimbrowski00
i am not sure if i have a one sided piece of vinyl...time to dig a little...i believe i do...hmmm... |
| Nisha Latkowski 29.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by keithace
|
| Osvaldo Newhall 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by fashion master
:eek: |
| Tashia Mcdunn 28.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by keithace
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIBtZR941Yw |
| Margie Pavell 27.12.2011 | i thought i read the anti skate was supposed to be set at the same setting as the amount of weight you are using? for example if you set your counter balance to three grams you should set the anti skate to three... correct me if i am wrong... |
| Tashia Mcdunn 28.12.2011 | If you are new to scratching then the most likely reason you are skipping is your touch. Antiskate pulls the needle left or right depending on where its set... to properly adjust it you need to take the needle off your cartridge then set the cartridge on your slip mat, turn the dial and your tone arm should move left or right (again depending on which way you turn it) you want to set it in the position where the tonearm no longer pulls in either direction. All that being said, I believe you just need to practice. You could check out another persons tables to see if you skip on theirs too... if you do you can confirm that its not the table. |
| Osvaldo Newhall 27.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by funkyfresh
Repainting the 1200s is no problem as long as the proper disassembling and assembling is done. Plus putting the tonearm back together and calibrating them, pitch control calibration, brake adjustment, de-soldering and soldering tiny wires, etc. Not to discourage you but putting the height ring adjuster is very tricky. There are six way to put it back but only one is right. I also wouldn't suggest using the faceplate covers because it only tends to scratch on the base frame and flushes the buttons lower. Also, it's a complete waste of money. |
| Sam Hanno 27.12.2011 | oh the magnet was cracked. was just mentioning cuz it wouldn't have cost much for him to just move the needle in the headshell and calibrate the tonearm. didn't wanna look like a total bum |
| Hassie Loon 26.12.2011 | Nicha how do you recalibrate the tonearm? I moved the wheel barring thing to 2 instead of 2.5. Is their a way to test to see if its the tonearm? Also, I touched the vinyl a little bit lighter and it seems a little better. My antiskate is 0 and wheel thingy to 3. So I guess I should have it recalibrated the tonearm by a service guy.? Then if all else fails a new tonearm ya believe? Also, is it a bad idea to have a 1200 custom painted or should I go for a chrome cover plate or skin. Thanks for all of your help guys. |
| Osvaldo Newhall 26.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by paw_20
-the magnet has been cracked or chipped. -the actual platter has been damaged severely. -the center hole has been damaged and makes the platter wobble and unstable. But if none of these symptoms are showing any signs, then there is no need to replace the platter. If this is what the guy told you, then he doesn't know shit about 1200s. Also, if the bearings in your tonearm are fine and the pivot bridges, screws and arm itself is not damaged, then there is no need to replace the tonearm. All it needs is proper calibration. |
| Hassie Loon 26.12.2011 | I'm using the Native Instruments DJ Q Bert Butter rugs. I'm going to press a little lighter when scratching. Also, how would I know the tonearm is the problem for the turntables? I might just buy two new tonearms. Get those replaced. Later on, I will just send them to a shop to get a "tune-up" kind of thing for my wheels. These maintenance costs are killing me. Thanks for your help guys. |
| Federico Vilas 26.12.2011 | check the needle to make sure it is CLEAN and undamaged. I always set anti-skate on max, the purpose of anti-skate is to keep the tonearm from skating across the record during playback. It's also good to make sure the tone-arm weight is set correctly. I always set mine on 2.5+ grams. This is a counter weight so less then 2.5 while scratching in my experience will cause some needle jumping. Now, If these are brand NEW carts you need to just play records for a good minute until the needle settles well with that ttable. My carts always skip like crazy when I have a new stylus...but it eventually works just fine |
| Sam Hanno 26.12.2011 | i had this problem with the pair of (well-used) techs i bought. the guy who taught me had a guy who did all his service who came in and looked at em for me. For me, one of the tonearms needs to be replaced, but if I take the needle and sort of twist it back (relative to the headshell) so that the needle points a little more towards the pitch fader, it catches the record a little better and they're usable. hopefully that makes sense. this is what the guy did for me b/c I couldn't afford a new tonearm; the platter also needed to be replaced. I believe it's wears out the record a little faster though. should probably get that tonearm replaced |
| Micaela Scherbert 26.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by Patch
to OP: what slipmats are you using? I love butterrugs, but i've hear magic carpets and frosted plates are even more slippery. |
| Osvaldo Newhall 26.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by funkyfresh
Anyway, you can check my website here: http://works1200.weebly.com |
| Brunilda Kora 26.12.2011 |
Originally Posted by funkyfresh
You have to literally use the pads of your fingers to hold the record, with next to NO downwards pressure. Just the friction between your fingers and the record. This is why it's important to keep your records dust free, and the reason you see scratch DJ's licking their fingers. It'll come with practice, mate. |
| Hassie Loon 26.12.2011 | Yeah tried this one record it seemed tight and it skipped very little. Its like I have to be extra gentle when I scratch. Maybe I'm pressing too hard? Either or I've calibrated my tonearm testing four different ways. It still skips... It sucks, just paid $700 on a Rane ttm56s. Oh well though... Nicardraus do you have any thing like a car "tune-up" kind a thing for 1200's? I'm in Maryland and might send one turntable at a time for you just too look at. Your a dj to, so you understand. Thanks for your replys |
| Micaela Scherbert 26.12.2011 | did you setup up the weight correctly? two much weight or too little weight can cause that problem. does this happen with every record and both sides? warped records are killer. and unfortunatley i've found most records do have a slight warp. :/ |
| Sheryl Monley 26.12.2011 | ^^^SPINDLE, that's the word I was looking for!!! |
| Osvaldo Newhall 25.12.2011 | You don't need to replace the tonearms unless the bearings are damaged. The best way is to re-calibrate the swivel pivot screw on top. Also, check your records' hole if they are loose from the spindle, if so, you can use a small piece of paper to fasten the spindle into the hole. |
| Sheryl Monley 25.12.2011 | The tonearm should be close to parallel with the record. I believe about 3.5" is considered a rather standard height for most tonearm/cart combos. This is a pretty good tutorial for setting up your tonearm: [youtube]gvBENMfjB0I[/youtube] If you are using the correct height and weight settings (which it sounds like you are), then the most likely culprit is the vinyl you are using. If the vinyl is warped, then pressing down on one side of the vinyl can cause the opposite side (where the needle meets the record) to jump, therefore causing the record to skip (a seesaw effect of sorts). If the vinyl is old the grooves may have a bunch of crap in them causing the needle to not seat itself in the grooves properly. Also, check the center hole of the vinyl. If the hole has become stretched or expanded, then there is extra space between the vinyl and the pin that the vinyl is seated around (sorry for my shoddy glossary/explanation), and the record can shift and skip grooves as you are scratching. See this video for a better description and recommended solution: [youtube]AzNoPBUf21E[/youtube] |
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