Dj Ean's modified MF
Dj Ean's modified MF Posted on: 12.01.2010 by Gwen Plamp Any chance of him posting a how-to video or you guys released a special edition DIY with a joystick system included? I love how it looks and sounds, plus it just adds to the feel of it being a fight stick. | |
| Glynis Mangona 20.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
incidentally, sparkfun also has Monome style buttons. those could be cool for the bank buttons as well... |
| Sheri Cluckey 17.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
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| Anette Botek 21.01.2010 | Robin, you did over-geek there, but we like that... |
| Glynis Mangona 20.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
incidentally, sparkfun also has Monome style buttons. those could be cool for the bank buttons as well... |
| robert chanda 20.01.2010 | To run the digital pins as an SPI port, you need to set the UART into SPI mode. Check the AT90USB162 manual: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/p...ts/doc7707.pdf Section 18, "USART in SPI mode", starting at page 173 in which you'll find this code snippet: Code:
void USART_Init( unsigned int baud )
{
UBRRn = 0;
/* Setting the XCKn port pin as output, enables master mode. */
XCKn_DDR |= (1<<XCKn);
/* Set MSPI mode of operation and SPI data mode 0. */
UCSRnC = (1<<UMSELn1)|(1<<UMSELn0)|(0<<UCPHAn)|(0<<UCPOLn);
/* Enable receiver and transmitter. */
UCSRnB = (1<<RXENn)|(1<<TXENn);
/* Set baud rate. */
/* IMPORTANT: The Baud Rate must be set after the transmitter is enabled
*/
UBRRn = baud;
}
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| Adolf Hit 20.01.2010 | Awesome - just mod the digital expansion pins into an SPI port! |
| Edna Cuzzo 20.01.2010 | I may very well do that. (A real accelerometer.) I'll post the code if I do. Sounds like a good reading week project. That or duct-tape a wiimote to it and use osculator. That would be ghetto. |
| Adolf Hit 20.01.2010 | I did very nearly include an accelerometer in the design... maybe next edition. Once again if you can right a bit of C it would not be hard to mod the current one. |
| Gwen Plamp 20.01.2010 | xerxes, dude it'd be awesome if you could find a way to hook a WiiMote to it and use its accelerometer I've seen some crazy videos of people using wiimotes for stuff like that. |
| Edna Cuzzo 19.01.2010 | Really thin strip controllers on the outer edges of the top cover would be awesome for tweawking out effects! So would an accelerometer in there! |
| Dorthy Delamar 18.01.2010 | I agree! |
| Sheri Cluckey 17.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
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| Glynis Mangona 13.01.2010 | awesome! thanks again |
| Adolf Hit 13.01.2010 | In the new design all those functions are now on the main PCB, you have 4 digital pins to play with, and four analog pins. 2 Joysticks use 2 analog each(x,y) so you will use all the analog up with the two joysticks, and the four buttons will use the 4 digital inputs up, this means for now you cant replicate the LED radio buttons exactly. If you are really smart you could right a protocol to allow the main PCB to talk to another micro over the 4 digital pins and by doing that add virtually as many analog/Digital inputs as you want. DJTT does plan to release further expansion products like that but you will have either to wait a while or DIY In terms of the touch screen here is what I have found so far. For 20 USD you can get a 4.3 " 4 wire touch screen from sparkfun http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=8448 For another 4 USD you get a nice breakout pcb to connect the LCD to the midi fighter. http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9224 With out going into to much detail on why the midi fighter needs to use all 4 digital pins and two analog pins to read the touch screen. It will also need a special code version. I have some 14" touch screens from a project at work so I will aim to put together a tutorial over the next month on adding a touch screen x/y control to the midi fighter and of course include the code update to do this. The good news is that it appears to be pretty achievable for anyone who can solder a few wires. |
| Adolf Hit 13.01.2010 | On that first (actually second) Midi fighter design the large pcb held the LEDs and the LED driver chip and all the matrix diodes for the button array. In that first design I used button scanning, in the latest design all the buttons are read in through two shift registers in a much more simple fashion. The smaller pcb had the main micro (the brain), the USB driver, and the joysticks. That pcb is mounted to the face plate using 4 x 15 mm threaded standoffs with a few washers to get the spacing for the joysticks right. The smallest PCB had four LED push buttons, I used micro on this PCB to create radio buttons. The led of the button that was pressed last glows the brightest and the others all ways glow slightly so you can see them in a dark room. The button micro communicates the button state back to the main micro in binary over two wires. The smallest PCB was mounted to the face plate with two 5 mm stand offs. This works nicely as the buttons are 8mm high, and the faceplate is 3mm thick so they are perfectly flush, which is important for mode type controls. In that design the usb cable came in through a hole drilled in the cast aluminum enclosure, through a screw clamp to prevent it from pulling out and then was soldered directly to the joystick board - not super elegant. The USB connector there was just for prototyping. |
| Ivette Johnikin 13.01.2010 | ^truth. many thanks. Can you comment on those driver boards for the joysticks and panel buttons in this pic? Are their control functions now handled by the mf board? |
| Glynis Mangona 13.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
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| Adolf Hit 12.01.2010 | Ill have a look into it for you but I believe it should be fairly simple hardware wise |
| Glynis Mangona 12.01.2010 |
Originally Posted by midifidler
(sparkfun has the touch screens for PSPs and Nintendo DS, but it seems like these would need additional circuitry and programming...) |
| Donnette Parish 12.01.2010 | @midifidler I just ordered three joysticks. (From playstation experience I've had controllers where one stick was better than the other)... Ok, so I take the 2 best and then what... I have soldering experience, and I even have basic diy build skills (building passive mixers and shit like that). But I am at a loss here as to what to hook to what. I have a while before those sticks get here. Any insight... Also, by the way, I want to personally thank you for your creation. I love it. It feels so much better than pounding out pads. I've gotten so many questions about it. It's definitely a quality piece of gear and looks good doing what it does best. |
| Gwen Plamp 12.01.2010 | thanks for the info, from the video I saw on gamesetwatch I thought they were actual joysticks (since the vid is straight down). What made you choose to use PS2 analog sticks? is it cause they are less cumbersome and have an extra button? I was actually believeing it'd be sweet to try and mod the thing to work as a FightStick for mame or street fighter IV on the PC when not being used for more creative purposes :P |
| Adolf Hit 12.01.2010 | That was one of a batch of 8 original midifighters I made for myself and a few members of this community
. http://www.djranking s.com/community /showthread.php?t=54 The case is the hard part to replicate as each one took several hours of machining to get to the right size. The joysticks I raxed from some PS2 controllers I got for cheap on a auction site however you can now buy them individually from many stores. http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9032 The four buttons on the top left are page buttons which change the notes of the 16 arcade buttons. Because we included an expansion port in the MF MK1 kits you can replicate these original midifighters with the MF MK1 kits by buying two joysticks, four panel mount push buttons and making your own badass case. |
| Donnette Parish 12.01.2010 | Yea.. a bag full of all the parts would be great. Or maybe some links to a good place to get the sticks. |
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